Engine Electricals

[Simon@NTS]

It's an Evo 6 GSR running (was) with the Apexi AVC type-R boost controller.

I've checked for continuity between +ve and ground and there was no beep. Checking for resistance read 9.24ohm (20k)

Cheers for you help again

Can you do the test also again with the battery disconnected

 

[Simon@NTS]

Pin 12 & 25 go to the engine control relay that needs to be checked

 

[Simon@NTS]

or this :O)

http://www.evoscan.com/manuals/Evo6/Workshop Manual/EV6_XEWiringCon.pdf


.

Page c8, item b27 it the location on ECM relay

 

[PMoreland]

I've just checked a few other connections on the car for a learning experiment and the ECU live was the only connection that didn't show any sign of continuity with ground. The EDFC unit which isn't working any more has a solid live feed and to ground so there may be a possiblity that it has been fried, the fuse could have been the wrong rating?

I'll start with trying to chase the ecu live back to it's origin, looking at the wiring diagram the engine control relay would be good place to start. There's almost no voltage passing though it when the ignitions on so something doesn't add up.

I feel I may be getting somewhere!

 

[PMoreland]

Just noticed you comment, haha. Same conclusion I think there.

Cheers for everyone's input !

 

[Simon@NTS]

Few things I'd now be checking, if there is no voltage to pin 12 and 25, is the relay working, is the relay being switched, is the main relay contacts receiving battery 12v, etc

 

[evo arm's m7960]

hi just been out to my e4 and checked a couple of wires out

there is defo 12v + at pin 12 and 25 with the ign on and the car not running :O)

and the crank sensor should have

12v + to the red wire or r/y

- to the black wire

and no volts to the blue wire or br not running

and up to 5v running /turning over

so you need to do as sbn1979 has advised really find the ecu relay and check the feeds :O)

go through the pin out diagram and check all the lives in to the ecu and all the ground as it only takes one for it to not work , did you check the fuse,s under the bonnet no 8 on my e4 engine related 20a ???


also do you have a imobaliser fitted ??? what does it cut off


good luck buddy


.

 

[PMoreland]

Thanks for that info, it got too dark last night so when I get back from work I'll check the feeds to either side of the relay. It seems like it could be the cause as both pins 12 & 25 don't have 12v going through them on ignition.

I checked the wiring diagram to the damping controller this morning and it has more than one live feed, I haven't had chance to check but it may be drawing power past the relay which could explain why that isn't displaying anything.

I don't want to temp fate but I don hope it is the relay, that will be a nice easy fix

Hold this space...

 

[Simon@NTS]

Keep us informed

 

[PMoreland]

Right, I've been probing for quite a while now double checking connections. Results are confusing on the ECU relay.

Voltage from the ECU relay (with ignition on)

Pin 1 = 0.7v - Relay switch out
Pin 2 = 12v - 12v out
Pin 3 = 12v - Live in
Pin 4 = 12v - Live in

After noticing this I thought I'd swap it with the fuel pump relay next to it and strangely the same results were found. The live feed out of pin 1 stays at 0.7v. Feeling that both relays wouldn't be faulty I checked them again by connecting to the battery and got the switch to change and measured 12v out of pin 1 so I now know the relay(s) is working.

I've checked the pin 1 out red/yellow cable for continuity at the B-59 ECU plug on pins 12 and 25, both showed next to no resistance and beeped for continuity.

I then checked the suspect 0.7v at the ECU relay and measured whilst turning the ignition on and off, the voltage changed from 0 (ignition off) to 0.7 with the ignition on.

(evo arm's m7960)The immobiliser on the car cuts out the starter motor, it cranks over so hopefully shouldn't be the problem.

P.s, I noticed the damping control unit had come loose on one of the front struts, after re-connecting the unit now functions as intended so is unrelated to the non start. At least something is fixed!

I really don't know what to make of what I've found tonight ? It's as if the relay is broken but I've more than double checked what I've measured and their fine? What could cause a drop from 12 to 0.7? I bypassed the relay and sent 12v down pin 1 R/Y cable with the ecu unplugged, both pins 12 and 25 measured 12v.

After writing this I'm thinking the only difference between the relay test I did was having a known working ground. I'll try to go out now and check the grounds from the relay to the ecu

 

[PMoreland]

I fear I may have been making a school boy error, all the voltage checks I've been doing to the ECU have been whilst it has been disconnected. I just connected back up and hey presto, 12v at pins 12 and 25.

I've got the crank sensor loose at the minute and the ancillary belt off so I'll get it all back together and check the crank sensor again, originally I couldn't get any readings so it could be at fault.

I'm away this weekend so will have to wait till Sunday, another weekend without the EVO :sad:

 

[Simon@NTS]

It's all part of the learning process, so the ecu has power, the engine cranks ? But no spark?

 

[PMoreland]

It's all part of the learning process, so the ecu has power, the engine cranks ? But no spark?

Yes, that's what's happening.

Crank position or Cam sensor ?

I tried to check the CPS before but couldn't get a resistance or voltage reading out of it. I stripped it all down to check the sensor and the balancer belt and nothing looked damaged either. I'll attempt again on Sunday when I'm back.

 

[Simon@NTS]

Is the rev counter moving when cranking?

 

[PMoreland]

I've not checked the rev counter whilst cranking, it's been raining constantly since the weekend so I've not had chance to put it back together. I've decided to buy the crank sensor and do the timing belt together as it could do with being changed. Parts should be here tomorrow, I'll try the new sensor before I do the belt and see if it works.

I'll let you know how I get on

Cheers

 

[PMoreland]

Is the rev counter moving when cranking?

The new crank position sensor didn't fix it. I noticed that there was no movement in the rev counter when cranking over, does that indicate anything to you ?

So far I've crossed off the list as working;

Crank sensor
Coil packs
ECU power
ECU relay
Both fuel pump relays
Fuel pump
Immobiliser
Ignition fuses

I'm running of ideas now, I may have to get someone out to look at it as It's been off the road far too long : (

 

[Simon@NTS]

So cam sensor been changed?

 

[PMoreland]

I was waiting for the battery to charge back up, I'll try and check the cam sensor now. I think I was testing the crank sensor wrong before as I did not have it connected to a power supply. The connector block is sealed from the back which makes testing difficult. I'm wondering about trying to bridge the connector with a piece of wire to the power source and seeing if that will work?

 

[PMoreland]

hi just been out to my e4 and checked a couple of wires out

there is defo 12v + at pin 12 and 25 with the ign on and the car not running :O)

and the crank sensor should have

12v + to the red wire or r/y

- to the black wire

and no volts to the blue wire or br not running

and up to 5v running /turning over

so you need to do as sbn1979 has advised really find the ecu relay and check the feeds :O)

go through the pin out diagram and check all the lives in to the ecu and all the ground as it only takes one for it to not work , did you check the fuse,s under the bonnet no 8 on my e4 engine related 20a ???


also do you have a imobaliser fitted ??? what does it cut off


good luck buddy


.

Hi,

Are your connectors sealed at the back of the plug? I was wondering how you tested the crank sensor in terms of connecting up. Mine are sealed so it's proving a problem as I don't have means to bridge the gap if I open up the plug. I might have to take a trip to Maplins to see if they have any small connectors to check the cam sensor's signal voltage

 

[Simon@NTS]

have you flashed out any fault codes by bridging pin 1 and 4 on the obd connector