Exhaust Manifold removal

[invisible]

Hi all,
You've probably seen me post on this topic before but hopefully going to get some time this weekend to remove the horrid cheap tubular manifold on the EVO and replace with an OEM one that has been polished and ported.

Job looks relatively simple, just 4 bolts to remove.

However on my manifold there also seems to be two other connectors on top (as circled in blue in picture. What are these and are they just as simple to remove)?

On the replacement mani it looks like they just have threaded bolt connections. Any special torque setting or thread lock needed when fitting the replacement.

Also how many new gaskets will I need, 1 or 2 and which ones (who from) should I get given i'm probably only looking for around 400-450bhp in the end at about 1.8bar boost.

PS. I assume the stock manifolds differ on EVO as I have two OEM manifolds in my gargae one with and one without the 2 extra holes in the top. So is my spare one for an earlier EVO?

Cheers, always learning

 

[Steve220]

They're the SAS feed to the manifold. They just undo. I'd use PLENTY of WD40 on the manifold nuts the night before you work on the car as they're prone to snapping. The biggest issue is getting to the ones holding the manifold to the head as there isn't a lot of room.

 

[invisible]

Thanks Steve - I'll get my WD40 out.

Hopefully replacement goes on fine and I dont snap any bolts removing! I think it was removed a few months back when I complained to the garage I bought it from as it had a crack in it. They removed and welded as not obligated to replace!

Ive had my replacement one ever since

 

[Steve220]

You can re-use the multi layer manifold gasket if its still present and i can't remember if there's a gasket between the manifold and turbo.

 

[B6lee]

gasket between turbo and manifold should be fine to re use as they are quite thick

as said plenty of wd40 and a good selection of tools and youll be fine

 

[invisible]

gasket between turbo and manifold should be fine to re use as they are quite thick

as said plenty of wd40 and a good selection of tools and youll be fine

Looks tight!

All WD'd up for having a crack at it tomorrow.

I think it will need to be a spanner, cant see many places to get a socket set to it.

Both gaskets look at visually but had a view that the mani was blowing so will see when we get it off.

Already dropped my WD40 straw into the engine bay and cant find it - Good start!

So what does the SAS do exactly (and what does it stand for?). Does it just provide extra air to cool things like the turbo etc down?

I have heard people have removed the SAS and just block the holes up. What benefit would this have?

I ask as I have 2 OEM manifold, one with and one with SAS (one without sent to me by a brerakers but up until now I havent checked it so may become surplus)

 

[fq-craigus]

No pops and bangs if you remove sas no biggie though just have some anti lag mapped on. Turn the car on for about a minute it should warm the mani and bolts enough to expand and come out better as well as using some wd40

 

[invisible]

No pops and bangs if you remove sas no biggie though just have some anti lag mapped on. Turn the car on for about a minute it should warm the mani and bolts enough to expand and come out better as well as using some wd40

Cheers

Fluoresent tube gone on one side of the garage so going to need to turn the car around anyway.

Might be brave and take the turbo out too while i'm there. At minimum to inspect the hoses as thats blowing as well

 

[drue1]

ive got to change my turbo and im in two minds weather to or not because knowing my luck the bolts will snap

 

[B6lee]

sas secondary air system or also know as egr exhaust gas recirc

as said youll loose any pops and bangs.

not really any gaind to be had bu removing it though. id leave it in place

 

[invisible]

FAILED :sad:

Tried for 45 mins just couldnt get all the bolts off so have had to put them back on again.

Couldnt get my 24mm socket on one of the SAS bolts and a few of them on the manifold (ones which I couldnt get my socket on) and had to use a spanner just couldnt get the purchase on them to get them to shift.

Bit odd that the nuts holding the manifold on seemed to be a mix of 12mm and 14mm. Is that norm? I would have expected them to all be the same.

Anyway looks like I will have to revert to paying someone to do it now instead

Still at least I had a go!

 

[Leigh_EvoIX]

Just a thought... could you get better access from underneath/?

 

[B6lee]

The bulk are 12mm nuts with a 14mm at each end as can be seen here

 

[Steve220]

Did you put a ring spanner over them and tap them with a hammer? Thats how i got mine off. Or the other way is an extension 6 sided socket on an extension bar, then use a breaker bar Its all about leverage

 

[invisible]

Did you put a ring spanner over them and tap them with a hammer? Thats how i got mine off. Or the other way is an extension 6 sided socket on an extension bar, then use a breaker bar Its all about leverage

Dont have a ring spanner. They are the ones with what look like bend heads, is that correct! lol

My extension bar my socket set was sweet for some of them.

Maybe I need go buy a ring spanner and have another go tomorrow.

Dunno how I can get the other SAS bolt off though. I was thinking if I removed the other bolt would probably give me a bit of leverage to get the socket head in.

I'll have another look.

 

[invisible]

The bulk are 12mm nuts with a 14mm at each end as can be seen here

OK I think they were 14mm on the edges and 12 elsewhere so makes sense

 

[invisible]

OK - After sulking I decided to have another go at this today so nipped out and purchased two flexible ratchet ring spanners in 12 and 14mm and also two ring offset spanners in 12 and 14mm.

After much swearing and shedding of blood I have all the bolts off with the exception of the of the 24mm SAS bolt (the one on the right of my picture in the first post) as I can not get a spanner or socket on it as the gap between the tubular manifold and bolt is too narrow.

So I am now thinking leave the SAS connected and remove the SAS as well as I doubt the pipe work is very flexible being metal.

Can I ask is disconnecting the SAS as easy as just removing the 10mm bolt holding the pipe in place by a little clip and the two 14mm bolts at the other end that seem to be on a plate? Will I need to worry about anythingelse such as throwing out any sensors or setting on the car?

As marked here

Lastly any tips for wriggling the manifold out as with the 4 main bolts sticking up and the other bolts sticking forward there must be a knack to it!

Btw 2 of the 4 main bolts have come out with the nuts still attached, its taken the thread out which I guess is not supposed to happen. Should this cause any problems refitting or should I be looking to try and free the bolts while I have the off the car and maybe using thread lock when putting them back in?

Any help appreciated, all bolts so look very rusty

 

[roynx79]

im guna be going through this next suday have got new manifold studs and nuts and gaskets as all mine look rusty as hell lol so should be fun . i replaced the one on my 200sx when i had it only took a couple of hours from start to finish dont think this one will be as easy tho:arms:

 

[invisible]

im guna be going through this next suday have got new manifold studs and nuts and gaskets as all mine look rusty as hell lol so should be fun . i replaced the one on my 200sx when i had it only took a couple of hours from start to finish dont think this one will be as easy tho:arms:

Where did you order you new studs and nuts from. Think it might. E good plan for me too. Should you use thread lock with new studs or not as I'm reckoning the threads will be a pig to get out too!

 

[B6lee]

It doesn't matter if the studs come out as well. Just put them back in with thread lock of youll get oil seeping through.

You'll find 1 bolt which I think holds the bottom of the turbo/ turbo elbow to the block. Remove this to lower the turbo from the manifold then slide the manifold off the head studs.

Try undoing the other end of the sas pipework and remove it with the manifold. Might give you better access to the large bolt once it's away from the rocker cover