Engine Electricals

[Simon@NTS]

have you downloaded a manual for sensor testing procedures
?

 

[PMoreland]

have you flashed out any fault codes by bridging pin 1 and 4 on the obd connector

No faults are showing. It repeatedly flashes on and off, no breaks in between the flashes which from what I've read means no faults ?

The Cam sensor looks fine after having it out. I wanted to check the output signal but couldn't access the connectors.

I've tried ringing a few mobile auto elecs round my area today but none could fit me in tonight. I might have to admit defeat on this one, I bet it's something simple but I can't figure it out.

 

[evo arm's m7960]

Hi,

Are your connectors sealed at the back of the plug? I was wondering how you tested the crank sensor in terms of connecting up. Mine are sealed so it's proving a problem as I don't have means to bridge the gap if I open up the plug. I might have to take a trip to Maplins to see if they have any small connectors to check the cam sensor's signal voltage

hi buddy

i stripped back some of the wiring on the car side of the connector and then used a volt meter :O)

from what i understand all the sensors / coil / injectors / have the same live feed but all have there own earths and signal wires back to the ecu .

please correct me if am wrong :O)

.

 

[PMoreland]

Major update !!!

Thought I'd get one of the plugs out to check the spark again as I used a Halfords smart price bulb tester last time which didn't show anything.... and there is a spark ! Wasted a lot of time there, sorry folks.

Myself and a friend just checked and there's plenty of pressure coming into the injector rail too. I'm about to start checking the wiring diagram for the injectors and anything that could be causing them to not function properly.

Thanks for the advice about checking the connector inside, I never thought of doing that!

The Saga continues...

 

[evo arm's m7960]

lol

:O)

glwt

.

 

[PMoreland]

Right, after some extensive probing and head scratching I haven't found a problem...yet

Cam sensor has 0-5v
Crank sensor has 0-5v
Spark on all cylinders
Injector resistor has same resistance through all points and 12v live
12v at all injector points at ECU
5v at all injector plugs at injector
Fuel pump has unknown but suspected enough pressure. (Is petrol too!)

I had to give back the spark plug socket so haven't had chance to check if fuel is actually getting into the cylinders. I couldn't get a 12v filament bulb to light up from the injectors when bridging across but the multimeter had 5v. The change in voltage wasn't much as it mainly dropped to 2-3v. A friend has a noid light so I will try that tomorrow.

I'm going to be borrowing a compression tester hopefully tomorrow too, I had checked the timing a few weeks ago and couldn't see anything wrong with the cams and crank line up. The belt between the cams does look suspiciously loose sometimes although they always line back up with them selves. I haven't checked the bottom end for a week or so. I wouldn't have expected compression though as the car drove fine home, just a minor stutter at a round about 10 miles or so before I got home which indicated to me something has deteriorated like a sensor.

Hopefully soon I'll know what the Fu#k is wrong with this car !

 

[PMoreland]

I believe the mystery may have been solved. From what I've seen circa 165psi across all cylinders should be a good reading. It started pissing it down so I only checked cyl 3, at 70psi I don't think that's going to be helping the situation. I could smell fuel out of the cylinder too so I think the injector's are working. Once the rain stops I'll check the others.

I'm either really unlucky and have brought a lemon of an engine or the belt must have slipped a few teeth. It pulled like a train before so suspecting the timings out. I brought a timing belt kit last week so have all the parts. I just hope no damage has been done to the valves!

Exhibit A

 

[evo arm's m7960]

take a look at this buddy :O)


http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f10/engine-problem-e4-compression-please-help-8524.html#axzz20L3nWU8B



.

 

[PMoreland]

I decided against checking the other cylinder's as I did some checks on the timing belt. The cranks roughly 4 teeth off with the cams marks aligned to the rocker cover. I checked a few time's and the crank and oil pump are out too so the tensioner must have come loose. Judging by what's happened I'm guessing the crank sensor's stopping the engine from starting as it's out of alignment. I've noticed a lot of slack between the cams sometimes, as much as you can see how it would slip.

The crank turns by hand but you can feel it go tight when you try to align the crank to it's markings. With a bit of persuasion it does turn though so I'm not sure how much is spring compression and the plugs are still in. It looks like the text book British weather has stopped raining so I should be able to do some more investigating tonight. I'll try to see if I can here any valves clashing with the piston with the plugs out.

I've got the belt kit so I'll do some checks before I start the engine to see how it feels, I could take the head off but would rather check with the new belt before I go down that road. Sad time's if it is ****ed, this same thing happened to my Corrado VR last year. I ended up having to change the engine after a piston ring decided to give up the ghost. Go Japanese everyone told me.....

The only silver lining I'm seeing is rebuilding the head with some new cams but I'd rather not if I don't have to! I'm missing a few tools but should be able to get the belt on by next weekend if the weather holds out. Anyone got a good idea to get the crank bolt out with an impact gun? I don't fancy using the starting trick in case anymore damage is done. Failing that I've seen a few electric guns with enough torque for the bolt

 

[evo arm's m7960]

sad times buddy :O(

this should help


http://www.evoscan.com/manuals/Evo6/Workshop Manual/EV6_XE11.pdf


.

 

[PMoreland]

Thought I'd keep some update's coming. I managed to spend a bit of time on it today and found the cause of the problem. The tensioner has slipped big time, I've got the plugs out now and it turn's pretty well by hand. If I can get hold an electric impact gun for the crank bolt I should be able to get it done soon enough then test to see if there's any damage been done.

That will be a tense moment !

 

[evo arm's m7960]

not a good sign :O(

can you not just time that belt back up just to check it if its not damaged with out undoing the crank bolt ??


and aint the 2 small holes in the tensioner pulley ment to be at the bottom / turned anti clock wise to tighten if i remember right .... check the manual ???

and is the plunger still working in the hydrolic part of the tensioner ??


:O)

 

[PMoreland]

not a good sign :O(

can you not just time that belt back up just to check it if its not damaged with out undoing the crank bolt ??


and aint the 2 small holes in the tensioner pulley ment to be at the bottom / turned anti clock wise to tighten if i remember right .... check the manual ???

and is the plunger still working in the hydrolic part of the tensioner ??


:O)

Valid point, I think I will do that as it'll give me a quick answer. The tensioners not doing anything at the minute, the bolt felt tight but I didn't check too hard. I'm not sure about the auto tensioner yet. I've been over the manual quite a few times, the last chain I did was a gearbox off job so glad that's not the case on the Evo !

I'm away tomorrow but will line it up again on Sunday and check by hand how it feels before I start it up. I'm scared and excited at the same time !

 

[evo arm's m7960]

fingers crossed buddy :O)

up date your location maybe some one on here could lend a hand :O)
.
.

 

[PMoreland]

Right, she's all timed back up again now. The crank turns a hell of a lot easier which is leading me to believe some interference has occurred. I've just done the compression test with not the best results on cylinder 1 and 2.

Cyl 1 = 110
Cyl 2 = 135
Cyl 3 = 150
Cyl 4 = 160

Can anyone give advice to whether or not I should try to fire it up? Just thinking if there's a bent valve in the head will it do some damage (if not already done)

 

[evo arm's m7960]

think you have already answered your own question buddy :O(


you have been turning it over with the timing out and now to get these results so i think damage will be done .and looking at the differance between the cyl's :O(


i would pull the head if me :O)


but its your car ;O)


.


.

 

[Simon@NTS]

Cylinder leak down test might show more

 

[PMoreland]

I thought fudge it and decided to start her up, it started straight away and there was no strange sounds, smoke or miss firing so not what I was expecting. Ive made a decision to put the new belt kit on as it shouldn't take long. Once it's back together I'll let it warm up and check for compression again as it could do with the cylinders clearing out.

If it turns out to be a worst case scenario does anyone recommend some good head builders ? I might have to go to a specialist as I don't have space to build it up at the minute. As my savings went on the car im pretty low on funds too so don't think I can stretch to new cams yet so would most likely go stock again even tho I'd love to uprate the power!

 

[Simon@NTS]

imo with the figures you had i was doubtful you had a bent valve more like ring wear, even the slightest valve bend will give very low readings, but again a leakdown test might show more

 

[PMoreland]

I'll try the leak down, didn't notice your message before I posted. I'll have to read up as it'll be the first time I've done the test. I'm sure they'll be enough info about.