Does this look like a bad CPS?

[koeck]

also this might sound silly but has it had the belt changed and if it has did you count the teeth against the old one

 

[Dom_J]

sorry to here its still a non runner dom, it would have been good to meet up,
have you had the head of buddy

also this might sound silly but has it had the belt changed and if it has did you count the teeth against the old one

I feel like I wanted his head! haha great news today though....


It started to today!!!!

After cranking it about 5 times in 10-seconds incriments on a FRESH jump pack, it cranked over w/giving it gas while trying to crank!

Ran perfectly fine, until it shut off. The car has been having the issue of after letting off the gas, the revs drop low enough to shut it off. It would usually kick back right on, w/good battery power of course!

I was good about keeping the revs up throughout the drive, I even let off the gas a few times and it didn't shut off. Once I went to really clean the rust off of the brakes is when the car shut down, guess the revs dropped low enough.

The battery was completely dead so it didn't even crank over one bit afterwards. It's so hard to trouble shoot this thing w/a dead battery. So I went back to grab a the jump pack and attempted to start it again, no go. The jump pack was about dead too, we know how those go, only good a few times before they need to be recharged.

So i'm back to square one only my car is stuck away from my house again .

We did notice the fuel pressure wasn't exactly so high the more we attempted to start the car. I'm wondering if I have a bad FPR to begin with. I don't really know how to test it, tools are limited. There was fuel getting to the rail so I believe the pump is okay.

It does looks like a fuel related issue. I just would like to narrow down what to replace, time is limited and replacing the right parts would be so much nicer!

-So my questions now are, does the speed of the car turning over have a huge impact on the start up??

-Do you think the dead battery is killing off other things making the no-start condition??

-ie. do you think the fuel pressure is so low due to the battery voltage being what it is??? That shouldn't have been an issue w/the car being jumped right? Then again a dead battery probably wouldn't help much even being charged.

-There is a fuel sending unit issue, fuel guage reads off and is really empty at a quarter tank of fuel.

-I have the battery on a charger and I am charging the jump pack so tomorrow I will go back for round 2 w/a charged battery/jump pack!
Idk.

Thanks for any more help on this issue!!!! So close to getting this thing back on the road!!!!! It ran healthy and strong when I put her to the road!! Doesn't feel like any kind of compression issues what so ever.

 

[sponners]

I'd check the crank and cam sensors again matey

 

[Dom_J]

I'd check the crank and cam sensors again matey

I'm thinking it definitely has to be one of those...

How do I check the cam angle sensor?

Thanks for that input.

Do is look like my fuel pump has been changed before??? I though the Evo 4 had hard pipes all the way to the fuel pump?

 

[sponners]

pretty sure the cam sensor is also a 5v quare signal, but if your not getting any fault codes then I'd just try another cam sensor off a mates car.

if the fuel pipes have been cut then it probably is a uprated pump, but you wont know for sure unless you take it out.

 

[Dom_J]

Replaced The Cas

I haven't had a way to measure actual fuel pressure. A little confused on the set-up as a whole, I did notice a missing relay though?! I replaced the CAS, and still no start but turns over perfectly! Here's some pics of where the missing relay is.

Which ones can I pull to test it out and crank up w/o hurting something??!

Tried to swap the above relay to see if I got a start but nothing, I think that's the ignition relay.

What are these two in the corner?

 

[sponners]

the grey one is the fuel pump speed,

the other 2 I think are ignition and fuel pump (main)


I'm sure El will confirm as hes fiddling with these daily.

 

[ElDopesta]

Sorry Dom but I have been away for the last couple of weeks buddy.

Rather than a re-cap on where you got to so far, can you just confirm one thing for me please???:

In the fuse box (right hand side of the engine bay) there are 5 fuses on the left hand side which are all around 20-30 amps if memory serves, can you check that the top one is OK (engine Management Symbol) and get back to me please.


El

 

[ElDopesta]

I have just had a chance to go through your previous posts.

I suggest that you try and crank it over once the battery is fully charged as dry cells and a poor alternator will give you the problems that you have experienced since you fired it up last.

If you find that it is running fine once it starts up, I suggest you immediately get a volt meter and monitor what the output reading for the Alternator is.

Try that and get back to us please.


El

 

[sponners]

out of interest, have you tried a 'bump start'?

 

[ElDopesta]

Could this have been as simple as a bad Alternator??? :wtf: :whistling::whistling::whistling:


El

 

[sponners]

its a strange one El, it apparently has a spark and fuel, timing good...so in theory should run.

will probably be something simple

 

[ElDopesta]

Thinking back now to the day he first asked for help, he never mentioned that the battery light or any other warning light was lit so I have to agree that it is strange to say the least buddy.

A bad alternator has been known to cause such issues in the past but I have never heard of it happening on an Evo, mostly on Rovers!!!

Youngy had a similar problem and when he changed the battery for a new one, the car started fine and he only had a problem (similar symptoms) with it some time later as the terminals were corroded/worn.

I hope it is a battery/charger related issue as it will mean that it is a relatively cheap fix.


El

 

[youngy_315]

i just thought el, the problem over xmas turned out to be fairly simple....

whoever replaced the cambelt before i brought the car had done the alternator belt at the same time and there was no bung (think he said that) on the pulley, so it was not charging the battery properly.

 

[Dom_J]

Welcome back to the action El! Lol

the grey one is the fuel pump speed,

the other 2 I think are ignition and fuel pump (main)


I'm sure El will confirm as hes fiddling with these daily.

So if that relay was missing...the car shouldn't start at all, right??! haha Idk how long its been gone.

Sorry Dom but I have been away for the last couple of weeks buddy.

Rather than a re-cap on where you got to so far, can you just confirm one thing for me please???:

In the fuse box (right hand side of the engine bay) there are 5 fuses on the left hand side which are all around 20-30 amps if memory serves, can you check that the top one is OK (engine Management Symbol) and get back to me please.


El

Which one? I've went through most all of them, is it one of the fusible links? I've switched the window fuse with pretty much all of them just to try to make it work.

I have just had a chance to go through your previous posts.

I suggest that you try and crank it over once the battery is fully charged as dry cells and a poor alternator will give you the problems that you have experienced since you fired it up last.

If you find that it is running fine once it starts up, I suggest you immediately get a volt meter and monitor what the output reading for the Alternator is.

Try that and get back to us please.


El

I only crank the car on a battery charger now . I've only tried to start it using a pretty hefty jump pack. When the car started up on a FREAK accident the other day, I checked for lights religiously! None came, not even an engine code
I think the alternator would kill it while it driving it was bad, shouldn't the car just start on battery power alone? I can't remember.

out of interest, have you tried a 'bump start'?

Oh yea, it was so crazy, she bucked and kicked something fierce like she wanted to start soooooo bad!! Shoulda seen it! But wouldn't kick over! This has got to be something electrical, this thing started up strong and healthy the other day...and ran even stronger, I drove it for at least 5 minutes, no lights, cels, etc etc. ODDEST THING EVER, so damn confusing!

Could this have been as simple as a bad Alternator??? :wtf: :whistling::whistling::whistling:


El

I really wish I could right it off as such...it should at least kick over and run before it dies. I've killed a couple alternators in my day :razz:

But overall, I don't remember the last time I attempted to start this car without a battery pack or charger.

i just thought el, the problem over xmas turned out to be fairly simple....

whoever replaced the cambelt before i brought the car had done the alternator belt at the same time and there was no bung (think he said that) on the pulley, so it was not charging the battery properly.

Did your car at least crank up for you??

 

[ElDopesta]

The fuse I was talking about is in the first fuse box pic you have posted up. It is the fuse that is located on the top right (the cluster of 5 larger sized fuses, not the smaller blades) and is represented on the fuse box cover with the Engine Management symbol.

It may be irrelevant now as I have since read that your car did fire up in the last week or so. Check the fuse anyway and ensure it is fully connected/not blown.

Again, I suggest that you try to start the car with a fully charged battery as it makes a hell of a difference over a Charger.

When you have fully charged the battery, ensure that it is holding charge and attach the booster pack to the terminals too as this will ensure a better regulated power supply.


El

 

[youngy_315]

Did your car at least crank up for you??

no nothing. when i was driving along the revs shot up and down, from 0 to about 5300 ish but kept "kangarooing" whatever i done nothing would control it, got back spoke to el, left it to cool, it then eventually started for about 10 seconds and died again... never started after that until i got it back from the garage and i tried all methods!!

 

[Dom_J]

The fuse I was talking about is in the first fuse box pic you have posted up. It is the fuse that is located on the top right (the cluster of 5 larger sized fuses, not the smaller blades) and is represented on the fuse box cover with the Engine Management symbol.

It may be irrelevant now as I have since read that your car did fire up in the last week or so. Check the fuse anyway and ensure it is fully connected/not blown.

Again, I suggest that you try to start the car with a fully charged battery as it makes a hell of a difference over a Charger.

When you have fully charged the battery, ensure that it is holding charge and attach the booster pack to the terminals too as this will ensure a better regulated power supply.


El

Oh okay, yea I've checked and switched that fuse around to try to get it to fire up, definitely a now go.

I see what your saying about a fully charged battery. What I've been doing is when I go to sleep at night I leave the battery on the charger. By the time I wake up the battery is a 100% charged.

So I disconnect the charger, then put on the jump pack just for the added starting amperage. The car sounds stupendous because it turns over so fast and it always seems like it JUST on the tip of starting but doesn't.

I think the battery is bad actually because just going through about 15-20 minutes of trying to starting it w/2 minute breaks in between while not exceeding 15 second starts to keep the starter intact. Everyday I have to recharge it to a 100%, it will hold the charge when I'm working a few days in a but of course, trying to start it continuously just kills it. Its actually charging right now from the earlier session. Then again, not many batteries are ment to take back-to-back cranking sessions I suppose.

 

[ElDopesta]

Does the car have an immobiliser???

If so, what make is it???


El

 

[Dom_J]

I don't see any signs of it in the key or whatever. I was just looking into that immobilizer stuff today, don't know much about it as a whole.

But it's a standard 96' GSR. I can't find anything about the immobilizer in the workshop manual.