Jonny IX
Group Buy Organiser
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- 2,313
- Location
- Shropshire
So I set aside yesterday afternoon and today to get the Evo ready for winter with a mini detail.
What I planned to do was my normal 2 bucket wash,De-contaminate the paint, polish and clean, and then bring back the shine and protect the paint ready for the onslaught of winter (My garage with a cover on and heater) :whistling:
The Car
My FILTHY IX.
The car had been driven a few days prior in loads of rain and muck !!
So first step was to rinse off the car with a hose, (not a pressure washer) as the sheeting water from the hose gently removes any particles or grit that have settled on the paints surface.
The car will now be wet but still dirty....So now I break out the snow foam and pressure washer !
Dont forget to get in to the arches and blast them, especialy if you have mud flaps, then get right in behind the mud flaps and all inside the Arch
After the rinse and arch blast. I went inside to set up the snow foam and the snow gun.
The snow foam I use is from CLB valeting and is there own line of products and I rate them highly !!
Heres the car after snow foam and about two minutes in to the soak.
You can see all the snow foam on the floor where its drained down off the car taking some of the grit and dirt with it !
While the snow foam is doing its magic. Treat your self for the start of a good job.
The car is now rinsed off again and ready for a shampoo
Next step is to fill a bucket with warm soapy water. For this I use CLB car shampoo , as it's nice and foamy and also slippery on the cars surface so acts as a nice lubricant for when I wash the car.
Next is to fill a rinse bucket preferably with a grit guard. As after each panel you clean with the lambs wool mitt, you will need to rinse it off in the bucket scraping your mitt on the grit guard to help remove any grit that could cause scratches and swirls when you clean the car.
Note there is two wash mitts there one for upper panels on the car and one for lower panels on the car such as side skirts and lower doors, splitter and bumpers etc
As said above using your mitt wash each panel, starting from the top , making sure you rinse the mitt properly, before going back to your shampoo bucket. Dont forget to pop the petrol cap and give that a good scrub to !
The rinse bucket will have a load of grit and dirt that has come from your car and wash mitt but rinsing has prevented this scratching and swirling your paint work.
Here you can see the nasties in the bottom of the bucket .
The car is now clean from most grit and dirt and ready for another rinse, Starting from roof down.
After the rinse off , I then start on my wheels which as you can see above were rotten. I use CLB Valetings own Its the Berries wheel cleaner and mixed it about 1/3rd Its the berries and then topped up with water.
I then fill up a bucket of shampoo and warm water as well as a rinse bucket and get my tools for the job.
A Do Do juice captain crevice wash mitt, a auto glym wheel brush, wheel cleaner brsuh and a longer finer brush.
Next is to spray the wheel cleaner on to the wheels.
And leave to do its magic !
For areas of brake dust build up I use the Auto glym brush to loosen the dirt as the Berries is doing its job!
I also use the other brushes to clean the inner of the wheel and around the brake caliper area.
Here you can see the importance of the rinse bucket even for your wheels !!
Once the wheels are all properly cleaned you can rinse them off then wax and dry.
At this point if I was only going to wash and wax the car I would dry it off now ready for wax.
My next step was to clay the car. This is to remove the stubborn road grime, tar and grit that has built up on the paint. If you feel the body work you can feel lots of little bumps and sharp pieces in your paint. After claying the panels will be glass smooth and helping to get that wet gloss look finish.
The tools for the job are clay, a lubricant ( I use megs speed detailer as it lubes the clay well when im working with it , micro fibre cloth to wipe away the clay and detailer escess after claying the car.
The clay should be kneaded in to a soft workable texture. On cold days I submerge the clay in hot water to soften it up.
I always spray a panel with quick detailer and wipe off before claying it to remove and rogue dust particles that may have collected on the paint that may cause marring or surface swirls.
When I use the clay on the car I spray the detailer on the panel area Im about to clay to lubricate as the clay will pick up debris and possibly scratch the car if it is not lubed up enough I also spray some detailer on the clay before rubbing the clay on to the panel.
When rubbing the clay on the panel (small areas at a time),dont push to hard let the clay do the work , Work on small areas at a time, I start with the roof, and then the bonnet, then the top half of the sides, then the boot, then the bottom half of the sides (Just like I did on the washing, do the cleaner areas first).
Gently wipe the clay in a fore and aft motion over the lubricated area using only finger light pressure, as above let the clay do the work.
Here you can see the tar and road grit that I have picked up in the clay, When the clay looks like this Knead the clay back and form a pad to start again. Kneading the clay regulary keeps it warm and easy to work with just remener to keep each area well lubricated, NEVER CLAY DRY AREAS, as this will scratch and swirl the paint.
The next shot shows some grit in the paint and then the clay lifting it out.
Then I wash and dry the car properly using a soft drying towel and a micro cross weave towel, the soft towel soaks up loads of water and the cross weave lifts the excess.
After the claying the panels should feel like glass and be smooth to the touch, they will now be free of contaniments and ready to be washed and rinsed again befor a polish or a glaze or both . I use Dodo juice lime prime for this job as it does both, also helps on swirls and scratches and gets the panels ready for wax or sealant or both.
The lime prime is put on using a soft microfibre cloth or applicator and a microfibre cloth to remove it.
Work the lime prime in to the panel as you would a wax but dont be to rough again let the product do the work, work on swirls and scratches more to get results. After applying the lime prime let it buff up and go cloudy , I leave it for up to 10-15 mins, before buff it off with a clean micro fibre cloth.
Here you can just about see the primed section of the boot and non primed
A shot of spoiler fin after lime prime and rear quater before lime prime
Heres a few after the lime prime application.
The roof with a section polished
After the Lime Prime, the car was looking loads better and I had polished out a few little marks and a spot that was bothering me .
Next step was to add the sealant, I use poorboys EX-P sealant.
The sealant helps to seal the paint and give it a nice glassy shine and depth to the paint work wharn waxed. I let the sealant set for at least 20 mins and this gives a good solid shine.
Heres a shot of the sealant setting in to the paint on the bonnet and what it looks like as its buffed off. Do the whole car and make sure its covered evenly including any carbon fibre that has been lime primed . The sealant really brings out the carbon fibre so is a good tip for shiny carbon !
The car was now sealed and ready for wax. I use Dodo Juice Pro blue velvet for the wax as I like the way it adds depth to the car.
I use a Dodo juice finger applicator to apply the wax and a clean micro fibre cloth to buff it off.
Here you can see the wax going to work and ready for buffing off.Do one panel and then do another then I go back and give the first panel another coat to make sure its even, then back to the other panel and re apply the wax.
Heres a few of the car waxed and looking shiny and clean
Here you can really see the gloss look popping out of the body work !
The tyres were dressed at this point I use poorboys Bold N Bright and sponge it on and buff to a shine .
Next were the wheels and the rim wax, its a quality wax for your wheels that will give them a as new shine and keep them protected and easier to clean. An applicator or micro fibre cloth and a clean micro fibre cloth to remove.
Let the wax sit while you do all four rims as the shine you get it amazing if you let it sit ! Another cup of tea now always helps !!
I even decided to retry fitting my Evo owners sticker and it went well and looks good in the grey, matches the paint and looks good on the tints !
The finished motor ....
Ill take some more pics tommorow before I set off to Indigo.
Hope you enjoyed the ride and liked the guide and picked up a few tips along the way .
You know where the WOOT button is and don't say flag squad dont do nothing for you all !! LOL
Feel free to add any comments or how you would do it or products you use any body in the north west wanting to know where CLB is PM me there worth a try loads of products and good prices and when your buying a kit load they will do a good discount to !
Cheers to CLB VALETING for all your help and advice !
What I planned to do was my normal 2 bucket wash,De-contaminate the paint, polish and clean, and then bring back the shine and protect the paint ready for the onslaught of winter (My garage with a cover on and heater) :whistling:
The Car
My FILTHY IX.
The car had been driven a few days prior in loads of rain and muck !!
So first step was to rinse off the car with a hose, (not a pressure washer) as the sheeting water from the hose gently removes any particles or grit that have settled on the paints surface.
The car will now be wet but still dirty....So now I break out the snow foam and pressure washer !
Dont forget to get in to the arches and blast them, especialy if you have mud flaps, then get right in behind the mud flaps and all inside the Arch
After the rinse and arch blast. I went inside to set up the snow foam and the snow gun.
The snow foam I use is from CLB valeting and is there own line of products and I rate them highly !!
Heres the car after snow foam and about two minutes in to the soak.
You can see all the snow foam on the floor where its drained down off the car taking some of the grit and dirt with it !
While the snow foam is doing its magic. Treat your self for the start of a good job.
The car is now rinsed off again and ready for a shampoo
Next step is to fill a bucket with warm soapy water. For this I use CLB car shampoo , as it's nice and foamy and also slippery on the cars surface so acts as a nice lubricant for when I wash the car.
Next is to fill a rinse bucket preferably with a grit guard. As after each panel you clean with the lambs wool mitt, you will need to rinse it off in the bucket scraping your mitt on the grit guard to help remove any grit that could cause scratches and swirls when you clean the car.
Note there is two wash mitts there one for upper panels on the car and one for lower panels on the car such as side skirts and lower doors, splitter and bumpers etc
As said above using your mitt wash each panel, starting from the top , making sure you rinse the mitt properly, before going back to your shampoo bucket. Dont forget to pop the petrol cap and give that a good scrub to !
The rinse bucket will have a load of grit and dirt that has come from your car and wash mitt but rinsing has prevented this scratching and swirling your paint work.
Here you can see the nasties in the bottom of the bucket .
The car is now clean from most grit and dirt and ready for another rinse, Starting from roof down.
After the rinse off , I then start on my wheels which as you can see above were rotten. I use CLB Valetings own Its the Berries wheel cleaner and mixed it about 1/3rd Its the berries and then topped up with water.
I then fill up a bucket of shampoo and warm water as well as a rinse bucket and get my tools for the job.
A Do Do juice captain crevice wash mitt, a auto glym wheel brush, wheel cleaner brsuh and a longer finer brush.
Next is to spray the wheel cleaner on to the wheels.
And leave to do its magic !
For areas of brake dust build up I use the Auto glym brush to loosen the dirt as the Berries is doing its job!
I also use the other brushes to clean the inner of the wheel and around the brake caliper area.
Here you can see the importance of the rinse bucket even for your wheels !!
Once the wheels are all properly cleaned you can rinse them off then wax and dry.
At this point if I was only going to wash and wax the car I would dry it off now ready for wax.
My next step was to clay the car. This is to remove the stubborn road grime, tar and grit that has built up on the paint. If you feel the body work you can feel lots of little bumps and sharp pieces in your paint. After claying the panels will be glass smooth and helping to get that wet gloss look finish.
The tools for the job are clay, a lubricant ( I use megs speed detailer as it lubes the clay well when im working with it , micro fibre cloth to wipe away the clay and detailer escess after claying the car.
The clay should be kneaded in to a soft workable texture. On cold days I submerge the clay in hot water to soften it up.
I always spray a panel with quick detailer and wipe off before claying it to remove and rogue dust particles that may have collected on the paint that may cause marring or surface swirls.
When I use the clay on the car I spray the detailer on the panel area Im about to clay to lubricate as the clay will pick up debris and possibly scratch the car if it is not lubed up enough I also spray some detailer on the clay before rubbing the clay on to the panel.
When rubbing the clay on the panel (small areas at a time),dont push to hard let the clay do the work , Work on small areas at a time, I start with the roof, and then the bonnet, then the top half of the sides, then the boot, then the bottom half of the sides (Just like I did on the washing, do the cleaner areas first).
Gently wipe the clay in a fore and aft motion over the lubricated area using only finger light pressure, as above let the clay do the work.
Here you can see the tar and road grit that I have picked up in the clay, When the clay looks like this Knead the clay back and form a pad to start again. Kneading the clay regulary keeps it warm and easy to work with just remener to keep each area well lubricated, NEVER CLAY DRY AREAS, as this will scratch and swirl the paint.
The next shot shows some grit in the paint and then the clay lifting it out.
Then I wash and dry the car properly using a soft drying towel and a micro cross weave towel, the soft towel soaks up loads of water and the cross weave lifts the excess.
After the claying the panels should feel like glass and be smooth to the touch, they will now be free of contaniments and ready to be washed and rinsed again befor a polish or a glaze or both . I use Dodo juice lime prime for this job as it does both, also helps on swirls and scratches and gets the panels ready for wax or sealant or both.
The lime prime is put on using a soft microfibre cloth or applicator and a microfibre cloth to remove it.
Work the lime prime in to the panel as you would a wax but dont be to rough again let the product do the work, work on swirls and scratches more to get results. After applying the lime prime let it buff up and go cloudy , I leave it for up to 10-15 mins, before buff it off with a clean micro fibre cloth.
Here you can just about see the primed section of the boot and non primed
A shot of spoiler fin after lime prime and rear quater before lime prime
Heres a few after the lime prime application.
The roof with a section polished
After the Lime Prime, the car was looking loads better and I had polished out a few little marks and a spot that was bothering me .
Next step was to add the sealant, I use poorboys EX-P sealant.
The sealant helps to seal the paint and give it a nice glassy shine and depth to the paint work wharn waxed. I let the sealant set for at least 20 mins and this gives a good solid shine.
Heres a shot of the sealant setting in to the paint on the bonnet and what it looks like as its buffed off. Do the whole car and make sure its covered evenly including any carbon fibre that has been lime primed . The sealant really brings out the carbon fibre so is a good tip for shiny carbon !
The car was now sealed and ready for wax. I use Dodo Juice Pro blue velvet for the wax as I like the way it adds depth to the car.
I use a Dodo juice finger applicator to apply the wax and a clean micro fibre cloth to buff it off.
Here you can see the wax going to work and ready for buffing off.Do one panel and then do another then I go back and give the first panel another coat to make sure its even, then back to the other panel and re apply the wax.
Heres a few of the car waxed and looking shiny and clean
Here you can really see the gloss look popping out of the body work !
The tyres were dressed at this point I use poorboys Bold N Bright and sponge it on and buff to a shine .
Next were the wheels and the rim wax, its a quality wax for your wheels that will give them a as new shine and keep them protected and easier to clean. An applicator or micro fibre cloth and a clean micro fibre cloth to remove.
Let the wax sit while you do all four rims as the shine you get it amazing if you let it sit ! Another cup of tea now always helps !!
I even decided to retry fitting my Evo owners sticker and it went well and looks good in the grey, matches the paint and looks good on the tints !
The finished motor ....
Ill take some more pics tommorow before I set off to Indigo.
Hope you enjoyed the ride and liked the guide and picked up a few tips along the way .
You know where the WOOT button is and don't say flag squad dont do nothing for you all !! LOL
Feel free to add any comments or how you would do it or products you use any body in the north west wanting to know where CLB is PM me there worth a try loads of products and good prices and when your buying a kit load they will do a good discount to !
Cheers to CLB VALETING for all your help and advice !
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