Rod Conversion/Turbo upgrade - What else!

invisible

invisible

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You may have seen from my other post that my car is currently in being looked at as the Clifford BlackJax5 decided to play up and prevent me from starting it. I'm now having this taken out (was just plain annoying anyway!)

While in I asked them to do a full inspection as was concerned about a few things.

Needless to say, apart from the gearbox crunching which I already knew. The following problems also confirmed;

- Turbo has an air leak and whistling, I thought as much :(
- Manifold cracked and gasket blowing, knew this anyway as still not fitted the replacement I have

I think my turbo is the weaker magnesium wheel one (9GT) so not surprised and have decided probably best to replace rather than get fixed.

I am considering the TT S209 as its a hybrid strengthened turbo as a direct bolt on as dont want to go too mad with the upgrade but at same time know it will stand the test of time.

Am also considering a rod conversion just for my own sanity. The Rod Coversion consists of :- Machine std Pistons, H Beam Rods, Rework Cylinder head, Cosworth steel head gasket, ARP head studs, Engine gasket set, Mitsubishi liquid gasket, Mitsubishi timing belt, Mitsubishi Balancer shaft belt, Mitsubishi oil filter, Millers 10w/60 eng oil,Antifreeze and labour.

As a general question (other than induction kit, walbro, exhaust, boost controller and remap) what would be good practice to upgrade too

I don't necessarily want to incure more cost but didnt want the other OEM components to go 'pop' after all that work has been done if they can't stand up to the new upgrades?

Any thoughts welcome.

Just off to chat with my bank manager!:disgusted:
 
RsvRob

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clutch upgrade may be needed

but knowing you dont drag it, launch it or use on track then std or just a stg 1 upgrade would do
 
invisible

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whos doing your rod job

Likely to be NR Motorsport in Lincoln.

Just looking at all the possibilities for the money.

I may for now just do turbo and injectors but until I satisy myself on what needs doing as priority over desire will have a better idea.

I think the car may already have a stage 1 clutch but unsure.

Previous history a bit flakey!!
 
vinny b

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Won't go wrong taking it to nr autosport mate what ecu has it got ??
 
B6lee

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If your gonna do a rod job then you'll be safe for around 500 bhp so why not go for a S205 or similar ?? :)
 
invisible

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Won't go wrong taking it to nr autosport mate what ecu has it got ??

Standard ECU I believe so ECUTek map needed but have to confess not dug around in the glovebox to look!

Lee,
Good point re S205.

Just been doing my sums and given the other bits that need attention the rod job may have to wait a while as my spend is going up and up.

I'll pop in and see NR in the next week or two and see if we can agree a plan of attack.

I'm really just looking to sit the car in the 400-450bhp space as at 500bhp I have concerns about the threshold of fuel pumps and other internals.

My plan now I think is TTS209 turbo, RC 750cc injectors, map and a full 3" exhaust. That will then leave me a few quid to tidy up some of the other minor things and a little aside just in case the gearbox does give up!

Thanks for all the feedback.

I will of course put the rod conversion on my christmas list, lol
 
FQ NICK

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The question i would be asking is do i need anymore power.

You say you won't be doing drag racing or trackdays etc so why more power.
The difference between a well setup 400bhp car and a 500bhp on the road is very little tbh. unless you want to sit in the pub with your mates telling them it's a 500bhp car :)
 
invisible

invisible

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The question i would be asking is do i need anymore power.

You say you won't be doing drag racing or trackdays etc so why more power.
The difference between a well setup 400bhp car and a 500bhp on the road is very little tbh. unless you want to sit in the pub with your mates telling them it's a 500bhp car :)

Idea is not to push the numbers but to have a solid foundation that could handle up to 500bhp but setup to around 400-450.

Having said that I'm going out at the weekend and buying a Golf or similar to run around in. Further inspection on the car has led me to believe too much needs doing to get it right and this needs time and money :(
 
B6lee

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1000cc are better cos then you don't need a fuel pressure regulator to go with them.
 
RsvRob

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560's are good for around 450bhp altho pushing there max limit on std fuel pressure I believe. So fitting 750's brings them back in line for optimum efficency at std pressure. 1000's are over kill ....
 
B6lee

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560's are good for around 450bhp altho pushing there max limit on std fuel pressure I believe. So fitting 750's brings them back in line for optimum efficency at std pressure. 1000's are over kill ....

Many people running 1000cc better that the max out the duty on standard ones and buying 1000's is cheaper option than buying 750's and a fpr :)
 
RsvRob

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don't need an fpr unless you wanna up the std pressure
 
invisible

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Thanks guys,
So good stuff to consider here.

Based on the assessment of the car as it currently stands the rod conversion may have to go on the back burner for a while. I still want to do it but think it's best I get the rest of the car functioning well first!

I had considered 750cc without fpr as didnt want to stress the OEM ones (560cc I think).

Hadnt really considered 1000c as thought that maybe overkill. But as I've said before i'm no expert so good to hear opinions and options :)
 
sponners

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if your going for 450+ then I would opt for 1000cc and standard fuel reg, and this will leave headroom future improvements.

(also 450+ I would be adding a 044 pump for safety)
 
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