RsvRob
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Finally Stage 2 as many of you requested to follow on from ...
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f10/stage-1-power-upgrades-4-9-a-4466.html#axzz28d2c0000
Please bare in mind that this is only a guide for what to think about as there is far to many choices of product. And it all depends on power targets your reaching for, driving characteristics and wallet size :thinking:
First of ...
Rod Job or Fully Forged engine is a must.
Choices of staying 2.0ltr or a stroker conversion are individual choices and again you could add in the factor of a long rod conversion. But get one of these done or you will be likely seeing an extra hole appear in your block.
Evo 5 or newer block is preferd for this job as the 4 has a differnt bearing design and can suffer from that walking issue people discuss.
Breathing/Induction
As per stage 1. To further improve on this a hard pipe 3" or bigger would be good. As with a bigger filter increasing air flow.
Match porting the intake to head for smoother flow.
Increased valve sizes. Normally +1 oversize on both internal and external.
Bigger intercooler piping with matching incresed sized intercooler. However be aware that going to big causes problems too http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f33/intercooler-sizing-calculation-o-6284.html
Exhaust
It is widely accepted that a 3” exhaust from the turbo elbow back is required to reduce the backpressure on the turbo to a minimum, thus allowing the best spool and maximum high rpm power.
Match porting exhaust manifold and elbow for smoother air flow. Tubular exhaust mani. But beware of cheap thin walled copies as they crack easily.
Other than this, a custom system as straight as possible.
Fueling
Inline (bosch or equivalent) fuel pump. With or without swirl pots.
Aftermarket FPR is an option for increasing and stabilising fuel pressure but not always necessary with other mods.
Most important is fuel injectors. Many seem to overlook this as an upgrade and instead go for cams, turbo, etc. But without these being uprated you wont get the fuel flow. Standard 560's are maxing out at around 400-450. You could increase fuel pressure but this then disturbs the spray pattern if they are still being maxed out. So simply just upgrade the injectors to suit your requirments and try to keep them at an ideal of 80-85% Max Duty.
Hard wiring the intank fuel pump direct to the battery also increases fuel flow as it cuts out the meters and meters of wiring in the car.
Cams and hotside
The stock cams and hotside were upgraded from the Evo VIII MR onwards to a slightly more aggressive cam set up and a 10.5T hotside.
The Evo VII and non-MR VIII will require uprated cams to achieve their full potential and even Evo VIII MRs and IXs can benefit from fitting more aggressive cams, although they aren't necessarily required for stage 1 especially on the IX with its MIVEC ability. The Evo VIII 260 struggles to reach over 360 bhp on its milder stock cams.
The fitting of the cams really goes hand in hand with fitting a larger hotside on the pre VIII MR models as the larger hotside allows the full impact of the more aggressive cams to be used.
Generally speaking, aftermarket cams with lower duration than 272 do not need uprated springs. However, extremely aggressive cams, such as the Piper range will need uprated springs due to their highly aggressive ramp rate.
Adjustable cam pulleys are an advantage in the fact you can get the best out of your choice of cams.
Turbo
And finally what you all probably been waiting for.The much discussed turbo choice. Well going back to the start of this thread it all comes down to characteristics and wallet size.
Evo IX is the usual upgrade for most as there readily available from those that want more again :razz:
This is were engine choice and turbo choice are combined to give you your drivability characteristics. Ranging from quick spooling but lacking top end to slower spooling but big top end.
Stroker being good for bigger turbos due to increased exhaust flow or spooling the smaller turbos even quicker than standard but causing them to run out of puff at top end.
Every one has ther own opinion on turbo choice but do your research....
Finally
Remap to suit all your extra mods as allways
Other additions
Going further you could be considering
-NOS kits
-Meth/water injection kits
-SD mapping
Hope this helps again :razz:
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f10/stage-1-power-upgrades-4-9-a-4466.html#axzz28d2c0000
Please bare in mind that this is only a guide for what to think about as there is far to many choices of product. And it all depends on power targets your reaching for, driving characteristics and wallet size :thinking:
First of ...
Rod Job or Fully Forged engine is a must.
Choices of staying 2.0ltr or a stroker conversion are individual choices and again you could add in the factor of a long rod conversion. But get one of these done or you will be likely seeing an extra hole appear in your block.
Evo 5 or newer block is preferd for this job as the 4 has a differnt bearing design and can suffer from that walking issue people discuss.
Breathing/Induction
As per stage 1. To further improve on this a hard pipe 3" or bigger would be good. As with a bigger filter increasing air flow.
Match porting the intake to head for smoother flow.
Increased valve sizes. Normally +1 oversize on both internal and external.
Bigger intercooler piping with matching incresed sized intercooler. However be aware that going to big causes problems too http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f33/intercooler-sizing-calculation-o-6284.html
Exhaust
It is widely accepted that a 3” exhaust from the turbo elbow back is required to reduce the backpressure on the turbo to a minimum, thus allowing the best spool and maximum high rpm power.
Match porting exhaust manifold and elbow for smoother air flow. Tubular exhaust mani. But beware of cheap thin walled copies as they crack easily.
Other than this, a custom system as straight as possible.
Fueling
Inline (bosch or equivalent) fuel pump. With or without swirl pots.
Aftermarket FPR is an option for increasing and stabilising fuel pressure but not always necessary with other mods.
Most important is fuel injectors. Many seem to overlook this as an upgrade and instead go for cams, turbo, etc. But without these being uprated you wont get the fuel flow. Standard 560's are maxing out at around 400-450. You could increase fuel pressure but this then disturbs the spray pattern if they are still being maxed out. So simply just upgrade the injectors to suit your requirments and try to keep them at an ideal of 80-85% Max Duty.
Hard wiring the intank fuel pump direct to the battery also increases fuel flow as it cuts out the meters and meters of wiring in the car.
Cams and hotside
The stock cams and hotside were upgraded from the Evo VIII MR onwards to a slightly more aggressive cam set up and a 10.5T hotside.
The Evo VII and non-MR VIII will require uprated cams to achieve their full potential and even Evo VIII MRs and IXs can benefit from fitting more aggressive cams, although they aren't necessarily required for stage 1 especially on the IX with its MIVEC ability. The Evo VIII 260 struggles to reach over 360 bhp on its milder stock cams.
The fitting of the cams really goes hand in hand with fitting a larger hotside on the pre VIII MR models as the larger hotside allows the full impact of the more aggressive cams to be used.
Generally speaking, aftermarket cams with lower duration than 272 do not need uprated springs. However, extremely aggressive cams, such as the Piper range will need uprated springs due to their highly aggressive ramp rate.
Adjustable cam pulleys are an advantage in the fact you can get the best out of your choice of cams.
Turbo
And finally what you all probably been waiting for.The much discussed turbo choice. Well going back to the start of this thread it all comes down to characteristics and wallet size.
Evo IX is the usual upgrade for most as there readily available from those that want more again :razz:
This is were engine choice and turbo choice are combined to give you your drivability characteristics. Ranging from quick spooling but lacking top end to slower spooling but big top end.
Stroker being good for bigger turbos due to increased exhaust flow or spooling the smaller turbos even quicker than standard but causing them to run out of puff at top end.
Every one has ther own opinion on turbo choice but do your research....
Finally
Remap to suit all your extra mods as allways
Other additions
Going further you could be considering
-NOS kits
-Meth/water injection kits
-SD mapping
Hope this helps again :razz:
Last edited:
