Stage 1 power upgrades 4-9

[SouthwestEvo]

A de-cat won't put the light on so must be something else.
Pm "And" on here cos he will be able to read the fault code and tell you what the problem is

Lee u are a Legend!!
Will pm And now..

 

[And@fcm]

PM'd back, if the car has a second lambda in it it's used to measure the cat efficiency so will put up a light if its not getting the right air to fuel mixture, as it'll think the cat is knackered, sometime you can just hang it up out of the way and it won't set it off but most of the time it will.

we'll see what the fault is when I read it

 

[RsvRob]

This is some good info well done and thx

 

[mass]

quality thread m8

 

[RsvRob]

sticky- and about time too lol

 

[evoaps]

sticky- and about time too lol

Good stuff mate

 

[Ozy]

Time for a stage2 thread or a thread that explains how to get more power after stage one mods for example if sumone got bottom end strengthened and change of injectors may be a different intercooler, what an saying is how to get more power before you need a rebuild of the internals
Good thread thow

 

[B6lee]

Time for a stage2 thread or a thread that explains how to get more power after stage one mods for example if sumone got bottom end strengthened and change of injectors may be a different intercooler, what an saying is how to get more power before you need a rebuild of the internals
Good thread thow

Stage one will get most between 360-400 which is down to the model of car and to what the mapper is prepaired to take it to safely.

The next stage would be forged rods and once you done that its all down to how much you wanna spend

 

[RsvRob]

Stage 2 is as Lee says. Meen's changing internal's and any other part you can afford. So no real need to do q full right up as the choice of parts is down to preference and price.

But for basics without internal changes :-

Bigger injectors
Bigger turbo
2nd fuel pump (preferably inline Bosch)
Bigger intercooler with matching hard pipes
Bigger cams (higher lift, 264 or 272 normally)
Remap to suit new mods

Anything more would require internals changed to suit the spec you want...

 

[Ozy]

Thanks rob, Lee that's shed some light on the situation so if I wanted 430 bhp good low end torque and high what kind of costs am I looking at

 

[Mick]

Bit of a bump for an old thread but don't see the point in starting a new one.


What difference does hard wiring a fuel pump make to just fitting a Walbro normally?

 

[Simon@NTS]

It gives the pump full battery voltage rather than the crap 9v or 12v and eradicates the masses of daft relays that are prone to fail.

 

[supamario666]

Bit of a bump for an old thread but don't see the point in starting a new one.


What difference does hard wiring a fuel pump make to just fitting a Walbro normally?

I think it's something to do with the power lost or be put through the relays!

Q the Geeks!! Lol!

 

[supamario666]

Beat me to it and put it some much better!! Aka the geeks in da house!!

 

[Mick]

It gives the pump full battery voltage rather than the crap 9v or 12v and eradicates the masses of daft relays that are prone to fail.

Would you recommend having it hard wired for a car that is only going be stage 1?

 

[Simon@NTS]

No mate

 

[StuartW]

Stage 1 mods complete still getting fuel cut @ 1.2 Bar!

Hi Anyone reading this Thanks in advance as its becomming rather frustrating now,

Started off with a bone stock Evo 4 import.

Mods i have done
2.75" downpipe
3" de cat
3" cat back

Orange top 560cc injectors

Black plastic cased Evo 5 ECU

New 0.8 bar wastegate actuator (As old one didnt hold pressure and made the car run 1.5 bar of boost and fuel cut)

Genuine Walboro 255

Re wire to new 255 inc relay

Gizzmo Boost controller and 3 port Mac valve (Plumbed with port 1 & 2) Side and front)

3" mushroom induction kit

Fully serviced Inc new fuel filter but running denso iridium plugs, Gap seems around 0.8mm? is it worth having a better grade or different gap plug?

After all of these mods i am still getting fuel cut when it spikes to 1.2 bar so i have to set around 1.1 bar. I am guessing that the ECU stock Fuel cut is coming in? I have the gain on the Gizzmo MS-2 set at 50, have tried all else and cannot seem to stop the boost spike, Air temps pretty low this time of year circa 5c during testing.

The Gizzmo is also set to Open loop, I tried closed but it will not run more than 0.5Bar Maybe i have my ports plumbed in wrong?, But it was as per Gizzmo instructions although they are questionable as it tells you 2 secs to hold buttons when in fact its 5 secs...

Is it advisable to wire in the FCD from my Gizzmo, Or to be safer and buy an AFR gauge, Or as i already have it to fit an adjustable FPR? If so what sort of PSI at idle Say 38PSI??

What exactly is envolved in re mapping the car, A new wire into the ECU loom? If so anyone got any links or clues on this? Is the re flash something i can DIY?

Sorry for all the Q's and await any help given :blush:

Stu

 

[RsvRob]

Fuel cut get it mapped out

 

[trampystu]

great thread,

just a question, is it beneficial to get hard piping (silicone hosing and such like) for the inlet and intercooler for a stage one?
also should i get it rolling roaded before since i dont know if its stock power or not?

have a 3'' decat system and a apexi airfilter, will get collecting the rest of stage one parts before its put back on the road in a few months, as far as i'm awear its standard at the moment

thanks, stu

 

[RsvRob]

Not necessary for stage 1 but always beneficial in performance and looks.