rolling road day

stevolution2010

stevolution2010

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oldbury(WEST MIDLANDS)
can we get the first post edited to include all info about this and a names list cos the thread is getting quite messy now :)

cant edit it mate forum doesnt allow but if people were to read the posts instead of just coming on and asking questions they would see

im going to start another as it has got messy your rite:)
 
B6lee

B6lee

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cant edit it mate forum doesnt allow but if people were to read the posts instead of just coming on and asking questions they would see

im going to start another as it has got messy your rite:)

ah right, i see. yea good idea :)
 
1982ollie

1982ollie

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750
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Berkshire
To go with the ecu, then I would recommend having a walbro fuel pump fitted first, a decat (if you don't have 1 already) and some form of boost controller, otherwise the power gains will be minimal, it will just be a little more economical.

Hi guys,

Need some advise - I was always thinking of going to MADDEVELOPMENTS for a full stage 1, however it is quite pricey compared to getting a 5/6 ecu, cossie1 re map and grabing a dawes device for now (Don't get me wrong, I know Mark there is very good and you'll get your moneys worth).

All I then need to do is get my walbro fuel pump fitted proir to the day and grab the other bits. Right I've made my mind up. I'm going to do this. What needs to be done to change the pump, I've heard you need to remove the tank to do this, is that correct? If its fairly easy, I know a local chap, who does my oil changes, however for the extra money to send to mitsubishi - It might just be worth just sending to them - So sorry, any ideas on how long it would take to change the fuel pump, as I don't want Mitsubishi robbing me of there labour charges. :confused:

Cheers,
 
Cossie1

Cossie1

New Member
Messages
202
Hi guys,

Need some advise - I was always thinking of going to MADDEVELOPMENTS for a full stage 1, however it is quite pricey compared to getting a 5/6 ecu, cossie1 re map and grabing a dawes device for now (Don't get me wrong, I know Mark there is very good and you'll get your moneys worth).

All I then need to do is get my walbro fuel pump fitted proir to the day and grab the other bits. Right I've made my mind up. I'm going to do this. What needs to be done to change the pump, I've heard you need to remove the tank to do this, is that correct? If its fairly easy, I know a local chap, who does my oil changes, however for the extra money to send to mitsubishi - It might just be worth just sending to them - So sorry, any ideas on how long it would take to change the fuel pump, as I don't want Mitsubishi robbing me of there labour charges. :confused:

Cheers,

A cut n paste from a post I made in 2007 on another forum:

Use as much fuel as you can.

OPEN ALL 4 WINDOWS AS WIDE AS YOU CAN ;)

Remove the bench seat, and take off the plate over the fuel pump (on a 6 this is on the passanger side, not sure if the 4/5 are the same or not).

Remove the rubber fuel hose, and electrical connector.

Undo the ring of bolts that holds the pump and sender unit in place.

Get the car in the air somehow (2 poster is ideal if you can find somewhere thats willing to let you use a ramp).

Drop the prop, off the diff, mark it with some tipex so you know where to realign it.

Undo the 2 handbrake cables,(1 bolt each side) and move the out the way of the tank.

Unclip the high pressure fuel hose, and undo the return line ( put a bolt in the end of the return line to stop it dripping).

Undo the 4 bolts that hold the tank inplace.

And gently but firmly pull the tank down as far as it will go.

It will lean towards the front of the car.

Now pull on the front edge a bit and it will drop down a bit more.

Reach up, and disconnect the 2 hoses that join in the middle of the tank.

Now carefully lift the sender unit and pump out of the tank.

It's a bit fiddly, but I found the best way is to pull it up, as far are you can, then twist it so you can get your hand on the float arm, and hold that inplace (there pretty flimsy and if you knock it too much, then the fuel gauge is even less accurate than normal.

Holding it in place carefully seems to stop it getting damaged.

Now keep wiggling until it's nearly out of the tank.

Eventually it will come out and you need to turn 90° to get it out under the car.

Swap the pump and fuel filter over (approx 3 - 5 mins if your taking it easy).

Refit, again go in sideways on, and hold that float carefully.

Once it's sitting in the right place get inside the car, and do up the ring of bolts, and use a pair of pliers to pull the rubber nipples up through the unit. You will feel them pop into place, if you don't do this, the seal gets squashed under the sender and it will leak fuel.

Once thats done, refitting is the reverse of reverse of removal.

It sounds like hard work, but tbh the first time I did it, without having a clue what I am doing it took me about 2 hours to get it apart and 30 mins to get it back together. (I didn't get the nipples on the seal right, so I had to redo it),that time it took about 30 mins to get it apart.

I did this on my RSII the other week, and it took me just over an hour start to finish, and it would have been quicker, but mitsi had sprayed underseal into the high pressure fuel line connection, so it was a nightmare getting the clip apart.

Hope that helps.

So basicly if your getting a garage to do it, they shouldn't be charging you more than about 2 - 2.5 hours to fit a walbro.
 
ElDopesta

ElDopesta

Well-Known Member
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5,705
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Nuneaton
Concise!!!

The only thing wrong though Russ is that's the long way round!!!

Ollie, with these instructions printed off, you can rest assured that the guy who does the Oil change for you will get it done without any issues at all!!!


El
 
Cossie1

Cossie1

New Member
Messages
202
It's the ONLY way to do it imo.

I don't do the cutting lines thing, as I don't cut corners with electrics and petrol.
 
ElDopesta

ElDopesta

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It's the ONLY way to do it imo.

I don't do the cutting lines thing, as I don't cut corners with electrics and petrol.


You got it all wrong Russ, the quickest way in my opinion is that he just gets a IV that already has one fitted :razz: :D :D

There is one for sale on Pistonheads around 20 minutes from him so he will save 2 hours or so right there :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:


El
 
1982ollie

1982ollie

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750
Location
Berkshire
OK guys - Thanks or this - The chap that does my oil is pretty clued up - He normally works on modern range rovers a stuff like that - So this would be pretty easy for him with these instuctions.

So on the day, all I will need to do is fit an evo 6 ecu which I'm about to buy and the boost controller - Is it gunna be do able do you think El?

Then Cossie1 - I'll need you to re map taking into account I'm 99 percent sure I have evo 4 injectors. Any idea what bhp I should roughly achieve?

Cheers,
 
Cossie1

Cossie1

New Member
Messages
202
OK guys - Thanks or this - The chap that does my oil is pretty clued up - He normally works on modern range rovers a stuff like that - So this would be pretty easy for him with these instuctions.

So on the day, all I will need to do is fit an evo 6 ecu which I'm about to buy and the boost controller - Is it gunna be do able do you think El?

Then Cossie1 - I'll need you to re map taking into account I'm 99 percent sure I have evo 4 injectors. Any idea what bhp I should roughly achieve?

Cheers,

330 - 340bhp denpending on boost (1.2 - 1.4bar)
 
ElDopesta

ElDopesta

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Messages
5,705
Location
Nuneaton
OK guys - Thanks or this - The chap that does my oil is pretty clued up - He normally works on modern range rovers a stuff like that - So this would be pretty easy for him with these instuctions.

So on the day, all I will need to do is fit an evo 6 ecu which I'm about to buy and the boost controller - Is it gunna be do able do you think El?

Then Cossie1 - I'll need you to re map taking into account I'm 99 percent sure I have evo 4 injectors. Any idea what bhp I should roughly achieve?

Cheers,


What sort of boost controller are you thinking of???

I have a couple of AVC-R's but they are expensive.

A Dawes Device will do you just fine.

I have many Gauges as you know, just not had time to email you the pics but I plan to stay at home tomorrow so will post some things up on here.

Everything is achievable on the day buddy, you will be in capable hands.


El
 
evogeof

evogeof

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Hereford
What sort of boost controller are you thinking of???

I have a couple of AVC-R's but they are expensive.

A Dawes Device will do you just fine.

I have many Gauges as you know, just not had time to email you the pics but I plan to stay at home tomorrow so will post some things up on here.

Everything is achievable on the day buddy, you will be in capable hands.


El

and they look the dogs too :razz::razz::razz:
 
1982ollie

1982ollie

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750
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Berkshire
Cheers El - Good to know that for once mate, without worring one bit - I'm going to run with a Dawes for now, un less you have anything of similar price, for now, until I can go for a posh expensive electric jobie.
 
evogeof

evogeof

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anyone know this handsome guy in my car :whistling::whistling:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awffUWvkr7k]YouTube - EVOGEOF[/ame]
 
1982ollie

1982ollie

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750
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Berkshire
and they look the dogs too :razz::razz::razz:

As much as I would love to Geof this month, I'm gunna have to run with a cheaper controller, just tempory, but I def have one of those buggers on my list.

Cheers,
 
evogeof

evogeof

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As much as I would love to Geof this month, I'm gunna have to run with a cheaper controller, just tempory, but I def have one of those buggers on my list.

Cheers,

to be honest i wouldnt bother i dont know how to use the dam thing :mad::mad::mad::mad: and sometimes i knock it by mistake :mad::mad:
 
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