Realistically, what needs to be considered - for buying and running

QfanatiQ

QfanatiQ

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Realistically, what needs to be considered, I thought I would jump on this early doors so avoid disappointment when I have saved and sold my body?

We currently have a small motor as we needed a car, the view is we continue to save and get a larger decent family car in 3-5 years while running and keeping the smaller car.

Now, I was previously looking at Both the VW R32 and Mazda3 MPS. However, I stumbled across the EvoX after looking at different budgets (ie MORE money to spend)

While I am looking at this car, I am thinking this is a clearly above both those listed models and therefore, the price (of everything) will no doubt reflect this.

Petrol wise is a no brainer, I am not looking for an economical runner however, I am keen to know real users figures of this and other things like that.

Petrol miles per tank real use?
Anyone had any issues with insurance (I am 36 (soon to be 37) hoping to get one of these when 40, still with all my NCB currently 10 years
Running costs
- Tyres, a good set, cost, for what and where best to get
- Servicing (for the first 5 as recommended by manufacture what do you spend) I prefer to normally take my Cars to an independent specialist if possible.
- Parts, are these super pricey, typical or can they be sourced directly for low costs and can I work on the car easily to fit and fix things?
- Doing works on the car myself. I am used to old VW's and my old Hyundia. I noted the VW R32 was hard to even change a front headlight build due to place of radiator and engine. Any thing like that on the Evo X?
Do the different FQ models change any of the above?

If I were buying today SH what should I be looking out for I was thinking the FQ300 or 330 but a bit naive on what the main differences are on the three different 300 models?

Long term owning, are there certain failings that are typical on the car at around certain mileage, or typical to happen within the fist X amount of years/miles?

Has there been anything you have had to fork out for that surprised you in both what it was (electric or other) and how much it was (how much for new lever!?).

Ultimately, I don't want to find myself able to get one of these, but then find the garage bills or wear and tear costs too much. And if I am honest with myself, I look at the prestige of the car an build and think that might be the case.

Any help and pointers greatly appreciated.

I guess the final question, why do people sell? I see many examples of these are really decent mileage and a nice saving on the buy new price, but I was surprised at home many appeared to be avaiable.

Cheers…..Q
 
Aidy

Aidy

Active Member
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338
Location
Kent
MPG obviously isn't the best...around 20-22ish just driving about. On a motorway run it'll go up to about 26. In terms of range you'll get about 250 just driving around, again a bit more on a run but you'll struggle to see 300 from a tank. Those figures are for the 6 speed too.

Insurance shouldn't be an issue, around £1k give or take a few hundred either side depending on where you live. Tyres are subjective but about 100-130 each for a decent to good road tyre that'll last about 10k miles.

Some parts are obviously very pricey :) but on the whole they're not that bad. Services are about £300-£500 maybe depending on what needs done. My first service is coming up so I'm not that sure, but going on previous evos I've had I doubt the servicing costs will be much different.

No major difference in the 300/300 models, mostly slight tweaks to the map, different exhaust maybe (not sure TBH),but it's never anything major in the differences, just some cheap add-on stuff.

Long term the AYC/ACD pump usually fails at some point in the car's life, and that's about £500 second hand. For the X it also depends on the gearbox. Some people have had issues with their SST, and if you go for the manual there is some defensive remedial work that you really need done too, I can't remember what but the manual puts excessive wear on something that you can get uprated to fix. Someone might know the specifics. The problem with the X is that it's a new platform. The likes of the VI (the last of that platform) and the IX (the last of the previous platform) are fairly bullet-proof with all the kinks ironed out. It's not inconceivable to have some issues on a new platform.

Build quality isn't great...this is BMW performance for Lada money, however they do still usually turn out to be very reliable cars even in the long term. People normally sell due to running costs. When they need new tyres, new brakes, another service, tax is due, insurance is due, yet another £70 in the tank they sometimes think it's just not worth it. The X is a lot better on running costs as the service interval is more "normal", whereas on previous evos it has been a 4.5k interval. However I think I'm getting worse MPG out of this one but that might be the extra weight.

> Has there been anything you have had to fork out for that surprised you

I once needed a new clutch on my previous evo and ended up having to fork out for two clutches and a new car...but hey, that story's for another day :D
 
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QfanatiQ

QfanatiQ

New Member
Messages
4
For the X it also depends on the gearbox. Some people have had issues with their SST, and if you go for the manual there is some defensive remedial work that you really need done too, I can't remember what but the manual puts excessive wear on something that you can get uprated to fix. Someone might know the specifics. The problem with the X is that it's a new platform. The likes of the VI (the last of that platform) and the IX (the last of the previous platform) are fairly bullet-proof with all the kinks ironed out. It's not inconceivable to have some issues on a new platform. :D

Aidy, many thank indeed for such a concise reply. Thats been a great little break down and much to my pleasant surprise, Tyers are not (currently) as much as i thought they might be. Insurance, I hope it wont be that much, thats some 400percent on my older (crappy 2.0ltr) car with a lovely but 5 years younger named female driver on the policy. Clearly, I will spend time pinning this down as thats costs that don't ever go back to the car.

Can anyone expand on gear issues.

Long term the AYC/ACD pump usually fails at some point in the car's life, and that's about £500 second hand.

As you mention second hand, is this something that me as an end user can do? Due to life time and costs, is it better to do it second hand over new?

Cheers,,,,,Q
 
Aidy

Aidy

Active Member
Messages
338
Location
Kent
Aidy, many thank indeed for such a concise reply. Thats been a great little break down and much to my pleasant surprise, Tyers are not (currently) as much as i thought they might be. Insurance, I hope it wont be that much, thats some 400percent on my older (crappy 2.0ltr) car with a lovely but 5 years younger named female driver on the policy. Clearly, I will spend time pinning this down as thats costs that don't ever go back to the car.

Can anyone expand on gear issues.



As you mention second hand, is this something that me as an end user can do? Due to life time and costs, is it better to do it second hand over new?

Cheers,,,,,Q

"New" isn't really an option. If you're looking to do the work yourself to cut costs then I doubt you'll want to spend £2,500 on a new pump :D You *can* do the pump yourself. The pump isn't so much the issue as manually bleeding the system after. Mitsubishi (and some specialist garages) have an electronic tool to bleed the system. If you google for how to do it by hand it's possible but harder. An indie garage will charge about £100 for a pump switch. Remember you need the fluids at whatnot too.
 
QfanatiQ

QfanatiQ

New Member
Messages
4
"New" isn't really an option. If you're looking to do the work yourself to cut costs then I doubt you'll want to spend £2,500 on a new pump :D You *can* do the pump yourself. The pump isn't so much the issue as manually bleeding the system after. Mitsubishi (and some specialist garages) have an electronic tool to bleed the system. If you google for how to do it by hand it's possible but harder. An indie garage will charge about £100 for a pump switch. Remember you need the fluids at whatnot too.

Aidy, thanks. when browsing I saw a thread specifically target at pumps etc.

I guess now, save save and save some more but so far on reading this seems to certainly be a viable option.

Cheers.....Q
 
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