evo arm's m7960
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- in east sussex on a psvita :O)
after putting off for to long i finally got round to "checking / adjusting " dialing in my brian crower 272 cams with my cdf truelock pulleys in my evo 4 as i had to remove the rocker cover any way to have some alloy bungs welded on to it for my oil catch tank/ breather mod install .
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f4/mod-update-e4-oil-catch-tank-11014.html#axzz2Hz8TcWg1
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f4/mod-update-evo-4-a-5362.html#axzz2Hz8TcWg1
and to be honest at first i felt little put off as ive never tweeked cams on a twin cam befor " have played with single cam timing years ago but was only looking for max lift on 1 lobe then .
with these cams and many others your now looking for valve open and close times at a set check hight , in my case 0.050" - 1.27mm
now ive been told and have read that you dont have to fit solid lifters to check the cam timing but from my experience here you do unless other wise stated by the cam supplier , as i couldnt get repetable rusults using just the standard lash adjusters ,
so this is what i cam up with ,
i just stripped a spare lash adjuster , then used the top and bottom part and filled it with some washers untill it was enough to put a small amount of pressure to push the follower against the cam ,to slack gave false reading while to tight still gave good ones
found the easies way to remove the lash adjuster from the engine was by using a 3/4" wide flat file pushing down on the valve leavering off the bottom off the cam , remember to change them back when your done and depressuries them also :O)
i also made up a tool to find top dead center ,
this consists of a old spark plug with a m10 bolt threaded thro it and a lock nut , i also filed a flat edge down the thread of the bolt to let any compression out of the cylinder as it comes up to tdc .
the crank also needed a timing disc fitted to it so i measured the crank pulley and had a look on flee bay
and came up with this
i found a timing disc for a scooter was a close fit and to hold it to the pulley i made up a nylon ring/ spacer to screw to the disc that would also fit snug in to the pulley then opened up a hole in the disc to allow access to the crank bolt " i have now fitted some magnetic tape to the back of the disc to make it more secure next time "and also have drilled a small dowl hole in the pulley and disc at tdc .
just used a wire pointed bolted to the block as a referance marker .
i used a standard dial gauge mounted on a magnetic stand which was sitting on a peice of 1/4 " steel plate resting on the cam carriers ,very heavy so as not to move
im not gonna go in to how its all done as ther are 100,s of vids on you tube ,
just that you have to take your time and have the right info befor you start
unlike me it seams the timing tag card that came with the cams didnt seam to match any of the reading i was getting from my cams ???????????
so i thought i was doing it wrong :O(
so after hours of head scratching and looking on line i found that brian crower has revised the cam timing card and now list a updated version on its web site .
BrianCrower.com | RunBC.com // Mitsubishi // 4G63 EVO VIII
which made a lot more sence when compaired to my reading " so be advised if you have bc cams the only way the first card came close was if it was done with the standard lifers fitted "
the end result is i had to advance my cams 2 cam degree inlet and 1 cam degree exhaust to match the timing card ,
using the cdf truelock pulleys its easy for me to put back the timing to where it was or move the timing a degree at a time either way to find the best set up on the rolling road .
i now feel i have a little better throttle responce and a nicer idle , but as the car has not been remapped for a while and has had a s90 throttle body / bigger ic pipes and new breather system just fitted i think it time to get it back on the rollers :O)
im glad i did this and will defo do again at some point:O)
.
.
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f4/mod-update-e4-oil-catch-tank-11014.html#axzz2Hz8TcWg1
http://www.evoowners.co.uk/f4/mod-update-evo-4-a-5362.html#axzz2Hz8TcWg1
and to be honest at first i felt little put off as ive never tweeked cams on a twin cam befor " have played with single cam timing years ago but was only looking for max lift on 1 lobe then .
with these cams and many others your now looking for valve open and close times at a set check hight , in my case 0.050" - 1.27mm
now ive been told and have read that you dont have to fit solid lifters to check the cam timing but from my experience here you do unless other wise stated by the cam supplier , as i couldnt get repetable rusults using just the standard lash adjusters ,
so this is what i cam up with ,
i just stripped a spare lash adjuster , then used the top and bottom part and filled it with some washers untill it was enough to put a small amount of pressure to push the follower against the cam ,to slack gave false reading while to tight still gave good ones
found the easies way to remove the lash adjuster from the engine was by using a 3/4" wide flat file pushing down on the valve leavering off the bottom off the cam , remember to change them back when your done and depressuries them also :O)
i also made up a tool to find top dead center ,
this consists of a old spark plug with a m10 bolt threaded thro it and a lock nut , i also filed a flat edge down the thread of the bolt to let any compression out of the cylinder as it comes up to tdc .
the crank also needed a timing disc fitted to it so i measured the crank pulley and had a look on flee bay
and came up with this
i found a timing disc for a scooter was a close fit and to hold it to the pulley i made up a nylon ring/ spacer to screw to the disc that would also fit snug in to the pulley then opened up a hole in the disc to allow access to the crank bolt " i have now fitted some magnetic tape to the back of the disc to make it more secure next time "and also have drilled a small dowl hole in the pulley and disc at tdc .
just used a wire pointed bolted to the block as a referance marker .
i used a standard dial gauge mounted on a magnetic stand which was sitting on a peice of 1/4 " steel plate resting on the cam carriers ,very heavy so as not to move
im not gonna go in to how its all done as ther are 100,s of vids on you tube ,
just that you have to take your time and have the right info befor you start
unlike me it seams the timing tag card that came with the cams didnt seam to match any of the reading i was getting from my cams ???????????
so i thought i was doing it wrong :O(
so after hours of head scratching and looking on line i found that brian crower has revised the cam timing card and now list a updated version on its web site .
BrianCrower.com | RunBC.com // Mitsubishi // 4G63 EVO VIII
which made a lot more sence when compaired to my reading " so be advised if you have bc cams the only way the first card came close was if it was done with the standard lifers fitted "
the end result is i had to advance my cams 2 cam degree inlet and 1 cam degree exhaust to match the timing card ,
using the cdf truelock pulleys its easy for me to put back the timing to where it was or move the timing a degree at a time either way to find the best set up on the rolling road .
i now feel i have a little better throttle responce and a nicer idle , but as the car has not been remapped for a while and has had a s90 throttle body / bigger ic pipes and new breather system just fitted i think it time to get it back on the rollers :O)
im glad i did this and will defo do again at some point:O)
.
.
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