help shaking when breaking

[DDS789]

Full geo bud

It's bushes after I've tried bearing and discs. But I have read around and bearin could easily be the one.

 

[JakeMac]

Could be but I have my doubts, bearings usually make noise under all driving conditions if there dry and if there breaking up you'll have play.

Could be CV joints possibly

 

[DDS789]

I was thinking cv joints too but no clicking on full lock.

 

[steeler]

ive got a X. only done 20k, and shuddering badly now. trying to find a place that can skim the disks is a nightmare. most say their machines dont fit, then others say take them off yourself and bring them in. dont know what to do!
how much are new standard discs?

 

[Cragga]

Not sure about standard discs but I think girodiscs or performance friction are decent for 2 piece and I'm sure cheaper than oem £550-£650 or you can get something like stoptech single piece at less than half that for a pair. What pads do you have ?
I had bad clicking on my X when breaking at low speeds but previous owner had race pads in, no good for my use, changed them and the issue was gone.

 

[Rugslasher]

Oem 2 piece are around £350 a pair ,but tbo it's hard to warp an X disc it probs your pads ,causing hot spots which cause a judder when braking (this was my outcome anyways after other peoples experience) I'm running yellow stuff pads on all 4 corners and compared to the shit3 that mitsi put in there brill

 

[steeler]

whats OEM i keep hearing about? are they the standard ones? im assuming mine are all standard.
im going to take the wheels off tomorrow and have a look if anything is obvious.
does anyone know of a link as how to take the discs off so i dont balls it up!?
+ ive been warned off yellowstuff type stuff. surely the standard ones are suitable?
im not doing any track days in it. just like putting my foot down to and from work..

 

[Rugslasher]

Oem is the standard disc which is a good 2 piece front ,as for yellow stuff they've never let me down and I get pretty frisky now & again :whistling:
Most will say get xp10 etc which on read ups are great on track but don't work that good on normal roads unless you drive like a twat to keep them up to temp, as for the yellow stuff they suite me for normal driving with wife & kids in aswell as me giving it some on my own :angel:
At the end of the day you need to decide for yourself an see how you go mate

 

[steeler]

ok well i have completed my disk and pad change!
what a hassle with all this weather. everytime i got out there it p!ssed down.
anyway, got the disks off which were seized on. and got them skimmed. they were rough looking when they came back, and the bloke said they wernt too bad when he got them on the lathe so dont know whether it was them being warped or not. anyway i put in my new Performance Friction pads, the old standard ones didnt look too bad to me. anyway put it all back together, panicked that i hadnt done something correctly and gave her a spin. took it easy on braking, and they feel VERY wierd, but seems to be ok. Anyone know whether they should feel perfect from the first stop, or does it take a few journeys to bed in!!? the shuddering APPEARS to have gone..

 

[steeler]

ok well the shuddering seems to have gone, but now it PULSES!!
def doesnt feel right. read that that is bcos of bad disks, or nuts not being correctly tightened. ie one side tighter than the other etc??!! cant imagine thats the case, so now i might just get new disks. Mitusbishi OEM ones from the dealer are £735!!!
Performance Friction ones are about £420 which is better. not sure if they are lighter etc though? As the standard two piece weighed a ton! do i have to get two piece?!?
what is that wierd bell bit anyway that sticks on them!?!?!

 

[Rugslasher]

Did you clean the hub where the disc sits before refitting ,as I didn't and it was wobbly ,after removing & rubbing hub down with some sand paper it was sorted

 

[steeler]

well i gave them a bit of a clean and a rub. cant imagine that makes much difference when you push the disks on tight, and bolt up the wheels properly?!
did you notice loads of crap coming off when did yours?! could give them a sand i suppose.
and surprise surprise, someone has told me that i cant have the PF disks now as they come without bells, and the old bells dont fit them?!
so that leaves the girodisks at about £550, the stoptech is about £275 and the orignal standard ones are £730!!
by all accounts the two piece are better than the one as they help with cooling. but if im not doing track days, then are mine going to really get super hot?!!?

 

[Rugslasher]

It would make sence to rub & scrape excess fuzz off as the disc bell has little holes where it leaves raised rust spots as it did on mine which at a glance looked ok until I built back up and tested only to find that I'd not put them in the same place hence the little rust spot making the disc uneven