Help Please!!!

[evo_4_macky]

Hi Guys,

Im macky, i have a mitsu evo 4 i purchased recently , and im also a newbie to this forum so your help much be greatly appreciatted,:razz:

anyway i bought my mitsu evo 4 before xmas as a non runner,

after looking into the engine and my diagnosis , i found that it needed a full rebuild,

on stripping the engine, i found the following faults,

balance shaft belt snapped,
cam belt, 5 teeth missing arround the crankshaft,
the seats that the cams sit in in the head was scorched,
4 valves bent,
and only 3 shells out of 8 left in the big end,

so therefore in my terms it would be what i call F****d

anyhow, this is where you help, advice, knowledge may help me,

i sourced a 2nd hand block, (complete)
and also a 2nd hand head (complete)

obviously i have been through the nessercery procedures to rebuild the engine .

all has been sweet and i was on my first testrun after fully rebuilding a new engine, since bringing the car home as i was pulling back into my garage the oil light came on,

after looking into it a bit ive noticed that the dip stick keeps blowing out of the pipe and spraying oil everywhere, ive been out a few times and it keeps happening, now since trying the car on a test run the oil light is now staying on permantly on idle, and i have a rattle/tap coming from the engine however when i rev the engine abova 1100rpm the light goes out and the rattle goes,

ive tried the ops ( oil pressure sensor)
i havent as yet done a oil pressure test, as i awaiting the tool to come,

however you help would be greatly appreciatted as to the best of my knowledge i seem to think the oil pump is on the way out,

however after being in the trade for 8 years, i have never experinced a oil pump failing as yet,

many thanks macky

 

[evo_4_macky]

here she is

here she is

 

[evo arm's m7960]

looks straight enough nice to have another e4 on here ,

and its always good to see work in progress pictures :O)

i think your on the right track and it will be a good idea to check the true pressure as you stated ,

dont rule out the pump or any bearing in the engine for loss of pressure " even balance shaft ones " or even oil pressure relife valve on the side of the pump for fault ???

dip stick pop out is quite common and may be a simple fix " replace the seal on the stick is the first step or can be held in with a spring "

are you sure you have the cam belt timmed up properly" oil pump balance shaft can be 180 deg out of time and the marks will still line up " as i read this can cause the dip stick to vibrate out ?? lots of vibration through the car over 3000 rpm ???


http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product.php?productid=5752


any way good luck buddy

.

 

[evo_4_macky]

first of all i really appreciate any feedback/ help given back so cheers for that mate,

as far as im aware i timed it up spot on, but no1 is perfect so i could have made an error,

no vibration through the car at any rpm that ive noticed, to be honest once you rev it, it sounds a cracking engine, as the oil light goes out and the rattle/tap/ light knock sound goes,

when the car is idling, and im under the car the noise does sound like its in the sump,

but if im honest i first thought the noise was near the injectors so i aint that positive #

ive read somewhere with regard to the pressure relief valve, however im not clued up on this, and dont know what it is or does, as i havent worked with one before can you advise me further??,

as that and a oil pressure test are my next jobs,

im having a couple days of the car as its really puzzling my brain at the moment lol,

i will post up a couple of pics of the engine etc before it went back in


cheers pal

 

[evo_4_macky]

piccys

please note, the pic on the belt on the crank was a picture of before with the 5 teeth missing around the crank sprocket and the balance shaft belt missing as it snapped and i could pull it out,

 

[evo arm's m7960]

this may be of help :O)

Mitsubishi Workshop Manuals

the white on blue looks good :O)


.

 

[evo_4_macky]

....

this may be of help :O)

Mitsubishi Workshop Manuals

the white on blue looks good :O)


.

i,ll have a gander, cheers mate

 

[evo_4_macky]

???

i guess u guys aint got a clue?????????????

 

[Technoprisoners]

the second engine...was it an evo 4 engine? usually oil coming out the dipstick is caused by crank case pressure. Now it could be just the seal but more than likely the piston rings are goosed...... The evo 4 engine is notorious for crank walk. This will cause low oil pressure. Your best bet is to get an evo 5 on engine. Evo 4 engine codes have a T in them The engine code can be found on the block just behind the power steering pump

 

[evo_4_macky]

hi

the second engine...was it an evo 4 engine? usually oil coming out the dipstick is caused by crank case pressure. Now it could be just the seal but more than likely the piston rings are goosed...... The evo 4 engine is notorious for crank walk. This will cause low oil pressure. Your best bet is to get an evo 5 on engine. Evo 4 engine codes have a T in them The engine code can be found on the block just behind the power steering pump

yes the 2 hand engine that i rebuilt including (head) as stated above,
was from an evo 4, i was told my the seller, can check the block codes if it makes a diffrence, as with respect to low oil pressure i am still awaitng for my oil pressure tester kit to come through post, ,

my main concern is that knock/tap/rattle noise it isint from the main bearings as its itermitent, come as goes, with the oil light flickering and coming on and off,

cheers mate,.........

 

[Technoprisoners]

that will happen as the engine builds some oil pressure when it is reved. wait and see what the pressure is with the manual gauge and take it from there but my money is on the bearings

 

[evo_4_macky]

?

that will happen as the engine builds some oil pressure when it is reved. wait and see what the pressure is with the manual gauge and take it from there but my money is on the bearings

yes mate im not jumping to much untill oil pressure is checked,
do you know that pressures these run at atall, without me having to check into it atall?

also you reckong main bearings?
as when its first started it runs fine, its just as about 20-30 secs into starting the oil lights comes on and makes the noise, but when reved it goes, and light goes out,

cheers for help :razz:

 

[Technoprisoners]

oil pressure switch is silly low...i think about .6 bar...ideally you want to be getting over a bar of pressure. as the engine revs the oil pressure goes up....so at idle you could be only getting .5 bar of pressure..and at 1500 rpm you could be getting a bar of pressure. when you start the car up it revs and then settles down to idle at 950 rpm. so it could be building some pressure on start up but most likely not enough

 

[Billy MR]

Evo's and money....

The list is endless

 

[evo_4_macky]

Evo's and money....

The list is endless

why did i want one????????????? lol

im sure i,ll get there, and its not the problem of not being able to fix the problem as once i know whats wrong i can crack on with it,

my first thoughts where oil pump, but as ive read they dont tend to fail on these, and as techno has stated could be main bearings, but once bearings start to go, theres usally no stopping them, but never know,

noone knows everything

wish someone did lol

 

[Technoprisoners]

the problem is the evo 4 has an integral thrust washer. you can replace this but more than likely it will happen again. This is why you can pick up an evo 4 engine a lot cheaper than evo 5. The evo 5 on engine changed the design and has a separate thrust washer which cured the problem of the crank not wanting to walk off down the road

 

[evo_4_macky]

the problem is the evo 4 has an integral thrust washer. you can replace this but more than likely it will happen again. This is why you can pick up an evo 4 engine a lot cheaper than evo 5. The evo 5 on engine changed the design and has a separate thrust washer which cured the problem of the crank not wanting to walk off down the road

sorry mate, please bear with me, you mentioned crank walk now, and ive seen this alot,

whats this intergral thrust washer? and where is it?,

does this cause my symptoms do you know??

as then its down to the seller ive bought the head and block off???

 

[Technoprisoners]

the thrust washer issue is crank walk. The evo 4 uses an integral thrust washer. is not fully known but it is believed that there isn't a sufficient supply of oil to the thrust side of the bearing. this wears down and gradually goes out of tolerance allowing the crank to move around in the cradle

 

[evo_4_macky]

sorry possibly a main issue i forget to mention, that ive just noticed whilst searching about crank walk on the web, its miss fire, sometimes its had the odd starting issue and when it does start it miss fires like its on 3 cylinders etc for a few secs then goes, has this any bearing on this issue?? cheers

 

[Technoprisoners]

the miss fire probably not..but the having trouble starting could. When you get crank walk it can touch and damage the crankshaft position sensor. So can cause trouble starting up and can cause the car to cut out. best thing to check for crankwalk is to get under the car and remove the flywheel inspection plate. Put a dial test indicator on the end of the flywheel. if you get somebody to press and depress the clutch and you underneath with a pry bar try and pry the flywheel back and forth. Measure the travel in the flywheel. I think the limits quoted by mitsi is .25mm