Evo 8 engine removal

[fq-craigus]

So far I have not found any useful hoe to guides on how to.remove engine from.an 8. I'm sure a lot of it is common sense like removing all external parts ie air intake system exhaust mani turbo ect and lee says to disconnect the cluth before its dropped.

But does the such need to be drained as this could be a prob as the engine won't run now the engines drained and sumps off. I understand the block and gearbox comes off together have I missed much else any comments are welcome.

I have the use of my dads worshop ramps and tools and my dads help I Jus really want to know if there are any particulars to the evo

 

[B6lee]

Will type you something up later mate

 

[fq-craigus]

Cheers mate apreciated

 

[B6lee]

craig, you using a 2 post electric ramp yea ?

 

[fq-craigus]

either one that goes individually on each wheel and lifts in unison or a conventional ramp or have flat surface and all the cranes and lifters i need

 

[B6lee]

right then, from the top

first off clear out the bay by removing hard pipe, airbox, battery tray, intake pipe etc and basicly anything else that directly connects the engine to the car

then from below

drain gearbox and transfer box oils, then remove the lower suspension arm bolts where they connect to the hubs and then once the oil has finished draining you can remove the drive shafts. dont just pull them out the box though, use a prybar or hammer and block of wood to tap them out of the gearbox.

then remove the transfer box to do this you need to first remove the output shafts. there is a M8 thread tapped into the ends to use a slide hammer with a M8 bolt screwed through it.
then lower the subframe as much as you can with out taking the bolts right out. carefull with these as the captive nut can spin, try and tighten them slightly first then undo them. you will need a large breaker bar for these.
then undo the 6 bolts that hold the transfer to the gearbox. then wiggle it off. you might want 2 people to do this as its UCing heavy :wtf:
no need to remove the prop shaft simply slide the transfer off it
you might want to remove the exhaust at some point too.

next search youtube for how to remove tob throw out bearing or clutch release bearing, its a fiddly job which youll master the more times you do it lol. there are inspection holes for it top and bottom of the gearbox housing

once thats done have a check round and remove anything that connects the engine and box to the car.

remove the aircon pump rather than disconect the pipework as the gas is harmfull. also power steering pump best off removed from the engine rather than disconect the pipework.

if i or anyone else think of anything else that helps ill add it to this post


good luck craig

 

[B6lee]

either one that goes individually on each wheel and lifts in unison or a conventional ramp or have flat surface and all the cranes and lifters i need

youll need a 2 post ramp to support just the car and not the wheels

 

[fq-craigus]

great how to buddy ill have a go at it in the morning

 

[fq-craigus]

cheers mate. ill have to come up with a plan for lifting the car maybe dropping the frame onto a crawler board jacking up both sides behind front wheels and sliding out onto engine hoist and onto an engine mounting to work on it

 

[B6lee]

If your using a 2 post ramp then simply lower the engine and box down onto the legs of the engine crane then raise the ramp up a away from the engine and crane

 

[fq-craigus]

All I cansay to anyone who can get one of these engines out in 3 hours is fair play.

7 hours down and engine still in just about. Clutch still connected grrrrr and can't find a link you YouTube not started dropping the block yet I'm exhausted

 

[B6lee]

This will give you an idea on how the bearing is held in place. But also search next door as it's well talked about in the tech section

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vqicDPXugg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBi5B_jVVGU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[fq-craigus]

Ah I c so a two person job really one over th top inspection hole pushing the thrust bearing towards the plate and one on the inspection hole underneath with the screwdriver popping it out

 

[fq-craigus]

And how much of a pain is the wiring being clipped here there and everywhere

 

[B6lee]

Yea you got it. Operate the clutch leaver with your hand to move the clutch bearing

 

[fq-craigus]

well...............



afetr watching that youtube clip when i got to the car this morning it took 2 mins to pop it out so deffo that clip helps, can be done with one person and even easier with 2 people, the one underneath with the screwdriver.

lee your how to guide is very helpful and is pretty much as described.

i opted to leave tranbfer box on and it is easy to get to all the bolts to remove it while its on the stand.

we didnt have the 2 post lift even though it would make it much easier but we used 2 trolley jacks.

the main headache is all the clips and brackets holding the wires together.

i nearly forgot the steering linkage but remembered before we started dropping the engine luckily, in the drivers footwell pop off the plastic cover undo the nut and tap with hammer to losen.

after all obstructions are free in the engine bay ie pipes, wires, rad, intercooler pipes, intake, battery and associated bits, underneath there are 8 bolts holding the subframe off, the main ones which you reach through the wishbone is the on with the captivating nut (ill be doing some welding work to the top of this before engine goes back in to avoid both bolts turning in future)

before you undo all the subframe bolts take up the weight with another jack and remove after as there are still the engine mounts holding it on top. once all bolts underneath are undone lower the car down and sit the engineon something with wheels and make sure its low. once its resting on something undo engine mounts via the nuts facing up.

you can now start lifting the car and if all is done well the engine clutch gearbox transfer box subframe and wishbones will stay on the ground just keep an eye out for the wires you may have missed.

once high enough slide out fom under car and secure car with axel stands.

this job was completely out of my comfort zone and i was out of my depth it felt at times but persaverance pays off. it took me a day and a half as i was quite thorough being my first time and not really knowing the order to do things. i did indeed end up with a nice puddle of assorted liquids under the car though including a bit of blood but ill bottle it and put it on ebay all proceeds go towards new engine lolz

hope this helps, between lee's and my post its all you need to know,

before work starts