Hi Mark,
There are several points to observe when viewing/ test driving an Evo VI that will tell you if the car is worth getting your mits on, I can give you more information if required as to a deal that will be worth while, but before you buy it will be handy to do the following whilst test driving:
Get the car off to a rolling start in first gear up to 20 miles per hour and then immediately select 4th gear and accelerate hard from low revs (1500rpm-2000rpm) the engine and speed should pick up slowly without any clutch slippage. If the rev counter is going up fast and the car is moving too slow then the clutch is on the way out. Do not confuse this with turbo lag as the lag is irrelevant.
Again, from a rolling start at around 2000rpm you need to select third gear and accelerate hard to around 5500rpm, the car should accelerate smoothly. If the car feels hesitant or seems like it has power but is not unleashing it or there is a jerky acceleration then it it most likely boils down to a fuel cut, a result of over over boost. 9 times out of 10 it can be because of several reasons which will need to be addressed i.e plugs/loose hoses etc. etc.
When the car is at 50-60 miles per hour, brake hard and feel for vibration through the steering wheel. If this is the case then the discs are most def warped discs. This will cost you a pretty penny to put right as a set of Brembos don't come cheap and you WILL need to change the front pads too as full contact will be impeded when new discs are fitted.
Grating from the rear at low speed/suspension clonks and any untoward noise when full lock is applied mean that the AYC is faulty. A minimum of £600 will need to be put aside.
When inspecting the tyres (this should preferably be done when the car is not in motion!!!!) Look for uneven tyre wear near both sides of the walls and centre, If any of these parts are worn then the suspension has been either incorrectly set up or the suspension/track rod ends are faulty/damaged.
Ask the seller what it its like on cold starts in the morning, If he does not mention that he lets it warm up before moving off then that is a problem.
Check that there is an automated turbo timer, If not then ask how long he lets the turbo time down when returning from a drive. If he does not then that's also an issue.
Ask the seller where the nearest petrol station is and see if he mentions that the car needs to run on 98 RON or only go to shell etc. This is a underlying issue on all beasts as normal unleaded is like cancer to these engines. I have seen the damage they do internally and it is statistically proven that Super or Optimax is better all round for the life of a Jap Hi Performance car. That is what they are set up to burn.
Hope i have been of some help!!!
What kind of a deal did you have in mind???
Please get back to us right here and I will try to help you further.
El
