DIY Knock / Det detection

And@fcm

And@fcm

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i'm guessing that includes cars that have had a change of internals or balance shaft removed?
 
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AndyF

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That's everything from stage 1 cars up to 600bhp monsters Andy.

Perhaps I've just been lucky but all this talk of adjusting the knock sensor sensitivity etc I just don't buy it.

People see counts of 5, 6, 10 etc. on evoscan, put a set of detcans on and don't hear anything and assume that it's phantom knock and change all the settings.

In my experience (and to satisfy my own curiousity) I've tuned several cars purely on detcans and disabled the knock control altogether. Tuned them to a point of getting the smallest amount of det you can hear around a certain rpm level and then back off the timing until it goes away. Upon re-enabling the knock control I've found you will then see counts of 11, 12 etc. at that same rpm level you could hear the knock in the detcans and of course, the ECU will pull the timing etc. This has led me to the conclusion that the std knock sensor will 'hear' det long before you can on a set of detcans and in all of the cases of so called phantom knock I've experienced it has actually been 'real' but you just can't hear it in a set of detcans.

On the other side of things, I had a car come to me the week before last where 'someone' had played with all of the knock control settings because they had told the owner they were getting phantom knock... Upon putting the knock control back to std it was showing counts in the 20's which given the amount of ignition timing in the map wasn't surprising to me...

Andy
 
And@fcm

And@fcm

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its just that generally you hear that if someone has changed the internals, ie gone to a 2.3 then the stock setting are nolonger valid due to the harmonics/frequency change.
Although we always use the standard knock sensor settings when we do our cars and then use a Kmon when on after market ecu's
 
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AndyF

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Perhaps I've just been lucky then but as I mentioned, previously I used to always map with detcans on regardless of what the car was but I got to a point where I decided I didn't need to use them anymore because the std knock sensor was working at a point long before I'd ever hear anything in them.

On top of that though I also use common sense in that if a car seems to be taking a lot of ignition timing above what I would consider to be 'normal' then I'll bring the cans out to check that it's not knocking etc. but that only comes with experience as to what you consider to be an excessive amount of ignition timing.

Andy
 
sponners

sponners

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saw a forged build recently and with the std map it was near enough maxing knocksum just revving it in neutral (noisy noisy lol)
 
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AndyF

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Doesn't matter what it's doing at idle with the knock sensor as it doesn't get used ;)

Andy
 
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Kiwi Rob

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Easy, cheap, WORKS!

The easiest way I could come up with to do this and it works well, cost about 10 bucks. Buy a condensor microphone from an electronics store for about $10 with a 3.5mm audio plug. Remove whatever plastic crap the condensor mike is housed in. Glue the mike to a piece of scrap steel with 5 min epoxy 1/4 inch (6mm) thick with a 10mm hole in it. You are basically done now, bolt it to the block through the hole, run the wire inside the car and plug it into your stereos 3.5mm line in jack ( most modern car stereos have one). Use your stereos bass and treble to tune out unwanted frequencys and volume to adjust the.......ah, volume. Easy as that, hope it helps.
 
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