confused about re built motor, boost limit!

[luke sheath]

hey guys, luke here, im new and hopefully buying my first evo in a few days, its a 96 jdm gsr and is amazing condition with full engine rebuild with receipts to prove.

just one thing it has a mechanic owner and he's a top guy that knows his stuff, only hes done a mod with I think the actuator pipe, hes disconnected it from an elec boost box in the wing and done something with it that makes the boost low while its running in, the thing is I would really like to buy it with the pipe put back running standard factory boost, and just make myself drive very gently for the next thousand miles then change the oil and start to really enjoy it!

the question is will my plan work? and what is the standard factory boost on a 96 evo? 10psi? 12?
as far as I can see if I just keep it under say 4000rpm while its running in it should be okay shouldn't it?!
thanks guys!

 

[RsvRob]

So you don't know about running in a newly built engine then!!!
They require the full rev range and all loads. just don't rag the hell out of it. That is why the boost control has been altered to run just actuator pressure. If the guy your buying from has had the rebuild done and you say he knows his stuff then why are you asking to ignore what he has done ????

I presume your talking about an Evo 4 aswell as you only say what year it is not what model. The boost is controlled via the ecu and solenoid. This is basically set at actuator pressure anyway. Unless he's had it remapped with different ecu or running an aftermarket controller to gain more boost than std.

 

[luke sheath]

no its all standard, its just been altered so the actuator only moves about a quarter of what it normally would so at the mo its at something like 4 or 6psi I think,
also neither of us want to rag it my real question is is surely its not necessary to reduce turbo pressure if it was only factory anyway, surely factory psi isn't gonna be huge? more important is surely keeping the rpm sensible and driving nice and gentle while running it in?

 

[luke sheath]

sorry also yes its an evo 4 jap import, what is the standard turbo psi on these anyway, ive owned 5 Nissan 200sx's their standard boost on the garrett t25 is 10psi, id imagine its probably the same for a stock evo 4?

 

[RsvRob]

12psi or 0.8bar

You'd be better of running this boost to run it in. Running to little boost won't help the rings bed in correctly.

The engine builder should be able to advise on a good run in procedure.

 

[DDS789]

A rebuilt IV engine???

If its still the standard IV block I'd be walking away from it :sad:

 

[luke sheath]

sorted

yeah all sorted, he put the pipe back in the solonoid and the boost went to a solid 12 and stayed there, he just advised me not to rev it over 4000 for a fair few miles,
i went and looked at the car, its really clean and the engine sounds fantastic and even changing gear under 4000 when we went for a drive it pulls REALLY hard and builds speed like you wouldn't believe!
the engine developed a bottom end knock during hard track days so its just been rebuilt with all evo 9 internals apparently, balance shaft delete, new td05 turbo,new clutch and oil pump etc full top end rebuild with something like "lash" done??
also the front diff and gearbox has all been rebuilt,all new bearings, the big end bearings in the motor are a.c.l, it has an apexi ind kit, nice forge dump valve and full 3" de cat stainless system, also refurbed 0.z alloys, turbo timer, evo 9 front seats and a proffesional door card re trim in black suede!!
i pick it up tommorow- i cant wait!

 

[DDS789]

Not to scare you though buddy, its irrelevant what internals were used as its the block that causes failure.

It's not a massive problem and is definitely over hyped, do some googling on "crank walk" so you know what your getting into.

Worst case scenario is an engine swap/block swap if it occurs. But if you do some reading you'll get the just of it.

It sounds like a really good car though so don't get put off.

 

[luke sheath]

cheers!

I think its all good, I got many receipts from FQ garage I think in surrey do you guys know FQ? one receipt is for a strip down inspection and re-hone of block then re-fit acl big end bearings and evo 9 checked and balanced crank, that bill is over £1200, another bill over £600 is inspection of front diff and replace bearings in gearbox.
the car used to be track dayed and I think the chap went into the wrong gear at speed, or missed a gear, not sure which and then a full rebuild was needed after!
I will say it drives really nicely, its only stock boost but its got somr real pull, the gearbox has a great positive feel, infact the whole car feels good, it rides well there is not one noise or rattle inside, ill try to get picks up in a bit!

 

[luke sheath]

and now.... pics!!!

here we go, browse the pics and let me know what you guys think!
its on 114k but like I say lots has been rebuild, it has decent t+t I paid £3000 cash, I hope it was a smart buy! I saved hard for 6 months!!

 

[Osborne0121]

Looks nice mate

 

[luke sheath]

cheers!

thanks bud!
ive just been reading your exhaust manifold problems and I hate to say but I have just done my standard cast one in mat black heat paint and I must say it looks spot on!
just mask off all the things you don't want to get paint on, run the engine for 1 minute to put some heat in the manifold then spray on!
trust me it looks good and its supposed to cut down on under bonnet temp too!

 

[Osborne0121]

thanks bud!
ive just been reading your exhaust manifold problems and I hate to say but I have just done my standard cast one in mat black heat paint and I must say it looks spot on!
just mask off all the things you don't want to get paint on, run the engine for 1 minute to put some heat in the manifold then spray on!
trust me it looks good and its supposed to cut down on under bonnet temp too!

I'm going to try my wanking arm first on the polish up if that dont work
It's heat wrap or your method cheers for the advice

 

[luke sheath]

no worries! you can send it somewhere to have it ceramic coated too in a range of colours and that stuff is the ultimate in reducing under bonnet temp but its the cost of it plus not having a manifold for a week!
let us know how you get on anyhoo!