another question about diffs...

[evonz]

hey all

so i bought an evo 5 not so long ago, stoked with the car but its developed quite a loud croaking sound in the rear. Hard to explain but it sounds like a donkey sorta noise as ive seen it described.

The car has an ayc rear diff, and i took it into mitsi to get the fluids replaced and the system bled, turns out someone had auto trans fluid in the diff (probably the start of my problems). The noise is now still there, and quite possibly getting worse, ive recorded some audio of it but i dont know how to post it to the forum...?


It only really happens on sharp turning, although it is starting to happen on less sharp turns now too, the mechanic reckons its in the diff, but i have a sneaking suspision it may be the pump, i havent played round with evos yet (have had and done alot of work on silvias -(dont hate me haha)) so im not too sure.

Any advice would be great, cheers

 

[ElDopesta]

From what you are telling me, I would have to say that I suspect it is the dif, there is no way a pump will sound like a donkey. The car may be crabbing now more then it was before and that is why the noise has spread across the sharp bends to normal bends.

Lock the steering to the car and then Stick the car in reverse, do the same with an opposite lock and then get back to me please.

If the car was in front of me then maybe I would get to the bottom of it in minutes.

Where about are you???

El

 

[evonz]

hi there cheers for the quick reply, im in New Zealand, so im thinkin it may be a bit difficult to check it out :S, will try the revers full lock thing this afternoon

 

[ElDopesta]

I dunno buddy!!!

You could pay for my air fare and a hotel if you want. I am a little busy at the moment but I am sure I could free myself up to pay you a visit and confirm what the exact problem is for you as well as check your car over properly

El

 

[sponners]

it is a common problem and the common term IS 'donkey noises'

its dirt build up on the plates and is usualy fixed by changing the oil (maybe several times for it to fully quieten down again)

 

[evonz]

hey sponners, cheers for the reply, i had the fluids replaced at mitsi the other week and it made no difference to the noise? The mechanic at mitsi suggested that this would mean it is wear on the clutch plates so they will need to be replaced?

I wouldnt mind re-changing the oil but when it was done at Mitsubishi it was $350NZD for the job to be done (ive done alot of mechanical work before so i could do it myself but i dont know what fluids to use and was under the impression that it wasnt a simple job as removing drain plug and then pouring in a new oil).

 

[evonz]

-

 

[ElDopesta]

Changing dif oil IS as simple as that!!!

Remove the bung and let it drain, Close the bung once done and then open the filler bung and fill!!!

75W90 will do the job just fine.


El

 

[Dave Brennun]

The prob with dealers is they always want your money! They tell you a holle heap of stories and shake their heads like puppets off thunderbirds. They know we can do it ourselves if we want to but they play games to rip us all of.

It is simple, you can do it pal.

 

[evonz]

so would that 75w90 be the fluid surrounding the clutches?

seen as the last change did stuff all, would changing it again be a bit more promising it could it be that the clutch plates have had it?

In defense of the mechanic, he did alot of other work for me on the car while it was there inc flushing out the pump, getting me some promar filters and oil for less than cost, changing belts, and doing a wheel alignment so i cant be too harsh on him.... would b nice if he could have actually fixed the diff tho

 

[sponners]

the diff oil is a seperate part, its the ayc clutch oil that needs changing and this needs to be done using evoscan or a mut tool to bleed the system (any air in the system will cause the noises also)

I know of some that when they had the donkey noises that they had to change/flush the system several times before it was fully cured.

the ayc oil you should be using should be dexron III or ATF-SPIII

 

[ElDopesta]

The AYC fluid can be drained without a mut tool. That is what the bleed valves are for. If you drain the fluid and then refil, you can follow the instructions on how to force bleed the AYC pump in the thread entitled all 3 lights on.

Sponners is correct, you may need to do it several times buddy.

If you want to attemp it yourself then give us a shout right here. It can be explained quite easily.

El

 

[MR.LANCER]

hey evonz'
from preventing it getting worse you could regulary change the oil.
quick & easy to do.
but it is your diff thats kaput'

 

[Dave Brennun]

so would that 75w90 be the fluid surrounding the clutches?

seen as the last change did stuff all, would changing it again be a bit more promising it could it be that the clutch plates have had it?

In defense of the mechanic, he did alot of other work for me on the car while it was there inc flushing out the pump, getting me some promar filters and oil for less than cost, changing belts, and doing a wheel alignment so i cant be too harsh on him.... would b nice if he could have actually fixed the diff tho

75w90 is the dif oil ot the ayc fluid. ayc fluid is normal atf, the one sponners has told you about. i think what El is saying is that you should change them both. the dif has atf in the front part that is facing the engine and gear oil (75w90) in the back facing the real bumper. sometimes they are known the cross over

before you go changing the dif, you are gonna be better off doing the change on the 75w90 and the ayc fluid (again). it might sort the noise out.

what El has told ya about the draining for the ayc and the force bleed is right. i hvae been in the evo buying and selling for years and have come across all the symptoms and the cures (some technically advanced and most mundane in tech but very effective). one thing i noticed over all others is that the best and experienced mechanics very rarely use tooling/diagnstics machines as they have the ear and the experience of knowing the problems like a doctor knows what to prescribe when you are ill as he has seen it all before.
i am very interested in seeing how this pans out for ya pal. keep in touch

 

[Dave Brennun]

The AYC fluid can be drained without a mut tool. That is what the bleed valves are for. If you drain the fluid and then refil, you can follow the instructions on how to force bleed the AYC pump in the thread entitled all 3 lights on.

Sponners is correct, you may need to do it several times buddy.

If you want to attemp it yourself then give us a shout right here. It can be explained quite easily.

El

even though its the first forum i joined i have to say that this is true to an owners club philosiphy: help all members with advise that is broken down to basic levels and easily digested so they can get probs fixed at home with least amount of tools as possible to SAVE MONEY for more important things imo

if a mut is not needed then why advise it is, it will just make a member strapped for cash have to go to a mechanic because the price of such a tool out ways the labour (some weigh it up like that most times).

El pal, i take my hat off to ya i dont have one but when i buy one i will

 

[ElDopesta]

A quick question at this juncture

even though its the first forum i joined i have to say that this is true to an owners club philosiphy: help all members with advise that is broken down to basic levels and easily digested so they can get probs fixed at home with least amount of tools as possible to SAVE MONEY for more important things imo

if a mut is not needed then why advise it is, it will just make a member strapped for cash have to go to a mechanic because the price of such a tool out ways the labour (some weigh it up like that most times).

El pal, i take my hat off to ya i dont have one but when i buy one i will

Well said Dave (the bit about what a Forum is supposed to be like any way)​

The point of a Forum is to help other members so that between us we can ALL save money and gain insight too.

Let me ask the following question in relation to a prime diagnostic example:
The car you have has the AYC light flickering intermittently. You take it to a garage and they run a diagnostic using whichever tool/software they have a license to use. It concludes that the pump is down. They inform you of this and you authorise them to carry out the work. What should be their most logical next step when taking the job on??

Should they:
A. Change the pump?
B. Bleed the system?
C. Check the complete system to ensure that the other components are running to optimum efficiency?

This is open to all members​

El

 

[evonz]

hey, so good news, spoke to my mate at mitsi and he said that he and the owner of the dealership (he's head mechanic) spoke it over and they are willing to do anoyther change over of fluid free of charge

so they will hopefully have time to do it this week and get back to me and i will let you know how it goes.

To add to elDopesta's questions, if changing the fluid again doesnt help what are my options,

should i try do it myself and manually bleed the system?
or
are the clutch plates inside the diff stuffed and in need of opening it up and replacing it?

thanks again for continuing support.

 

[ElDopesta]

Well that is a bit of good news buddy!!!

Have them change the dif oil too.

If the noise is still there then you might as well run the car for around 150km and then do one last change which will theoretically mean that you have done two as the one your having done now will be free of charge.

Keep us posted and we can take it from there kiddo.

El