Please Heeeeelp!!!!!

1

123tom123tom

New Member
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43
right I am going to put the thing back to standard as possible in regards to electrics??? this car hasn't got a factory fitted immobiliser has it? also where is the ecu haven't seen it yet on my strip down

regards tom
 
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123tom123tom

New Member
Messages
43
unless the voltage is so high that it cooks the ecu!
you or a friend hasnt jump started it lately have you????

not that I know of??? had the battery on a trickle charge before I changed it for a new one.

If I put the volt meter across the battery what kind of reading should I be getting whilst the car is idling and with revs etc...

It is really bugging me now because I know it will me something really stupid causing a incorrect signal through dodgy wiring :cry: but there is that much dodgy wiring it is unreal....

The key to this is the number 15 fuse under the bonnet the 100 amp one. with this out what would allow the car to idle but not run and with it in not run but all the interior to work.... some thing that runs off this is causing the problem
 
fq-craigus

fq-craigus

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I would get an auto electrician on it to just find and isolate the problem, it seems like a big headache buddy. Someone who does it on a daily basis will prob find the fault quick time and you can move onto next issue
 
trackday

trackday

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437
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I would get an auto electrician on it to just find and isolate the problem, it seems like a big headache buddy. Someone who does it on a daily basis will prob find the fault quick time and you can move onto next issue

I would agree for what could take you days will prob take a ae a hour too find. Another thing to try is disconnect your alternator wires (put some insulating tape around them so they don't touch and earth out) and start and see if it runs.alternators normally kick out around 14.1 volts anything over 14.5 ya alts foobarred
 
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123tom123tom

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43
I would agree for what could take you days will prob take a ae a hour too find. Another thing to try is disconnect your alternator wires (put some insulating tape around them so they don't touch and earth out) and start and see if it runs.alternators normally kick out around 14.1 volts anything over 14.5 ya alts foobarred

just got the alternator of another... that would be unlucky :sad:
 

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1

123tom123tom

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pic 1, dont know what this is, but pic 2 is the other end to it in the drivers footwell..

pic 3 mess of wires, pic 4 didn't know if this was part of the alarm system.... it was in the same loom along with the turbo timer...

All wires I think are now standard.... still will not start and run unless revs are on and then it is over fueling banging like mad

there is a solenoid down the bottom right of the engine bay, it has 1 pipe going to the wastegate actuator, but there is a pipe missing on the solenoid, unless it isn't needed????

- know error code either, tried flashing them out and it constantly flashe really quick
 
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RsvRob

RsvRob

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pic 1 I don't know but it's not std :(

If the alarm and turbo timer is all added into the harness then I'd strip them out as it may be interfering with it all

You also need to locate the ecu to find out what your running. If its been tampered with or your running a non std one. You may find this is causing your problems.

As said I'd get to an auto electrcian with copy of std wiring diagram and have him check it all out.
 
RsvRob

RsvRob

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pipe missing on the solenoid is a problem

disconnect it
plumb some vac pipe from actuator to turbo instead
 
foxy lady x

foxy lady x

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How long have you had the car for and when did it all start to happen?

I'd defo get some one who specialises in electrics for a living to have a gooch, cos you could be there forever trying to source the problem, have you got a video to show us what it sounds like when you try to start it?
 
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123tom123tom

New Member
Messages
43
pic 1 I don't know but it's not std :(

If the alarm and turbo timer is all added into the harness then I'd strip them out as it may be interfering with it all

You also need to locate the ecu to find out what your running. If its been tampered with or your running a non std one. You may find this is causing your problems.

As said I'd get to an auto electrcian with copy of std wiring diagram and have him check it all out.


All the harness has been striped out all the wiring is back to what looks like standard???

As for pic one this is t pieced into what looks like the fuel rail regulator vac pipe... how should this go standered should it be a straight pipe from a solenoid to the FPR...

As for the ecu I still cant find it? where abouts behind the dash is it exactly.. is it behind the airbox blower, how do I get to it and take it out etc??
 
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123tom123tom

New Member
Messages
43
How long have you had the car for and when did it all start to happen?

I'd defo get some one who specialises in electrics for a living to have a gooch, cos you could be there forever trying to source the problem, have you got a video to show us what it sounds like when you try to start it?

I can get one for you probably, video that is... also I bought the car with this problem... well use that loosely, he said it was the alternator that had failed and the battery in turn was shot, also would not go in gear??? I have sorted that problem with new linkages....
 
foxy lady x

foxy lady x

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I'm gonna be honest.... What the hell was you doing buying a car that doesn't go ?!?! :shock::shock: Lol did you test drive it at all ?

The ECU is either a black or silver box with shed loads of wires coming out of it, it should have like a name on it depends what ECU it is, I.E Mitisibushi, apexi, etc etc.
And should be around the passengers side foot well, or behind glovebox round that area.

That pipe off the solenoid, could be a boost pipe came off, but need pics or video to see really.

Where abouts are you? What part of the country you from? Cos maybe a member or trader on here could help you abit more. :)
 
fq-craigus

fq-craigus

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8,136
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A broke evo needs love too, fair play for having the patience. Get some pics up of the pipe problem
 
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