Evo 4 Engine Apart...recommendations

[Dom_J]

Hey guys! I have my Engine apart at the moment...getting the head milled due to it being warped, unsealing the HG and hurting compression. Car was ran w/o coolant for a while, I don't really know if it was the water pump or just being ran w/o any coolant in general. Didn't have the car long enough.

It's a 96' and has about 100,000km I believe...can't remember.



- What should I replace when putting it all back together? Do I need to replace the head studs, I was thinking timing belt(which is best? Factory?),what else should I consider replacing while I have the head out?

Anyone got some upgradable cams for sale??

Thanks a lot guys! Hope to see her on the road again soon!!!

*edit* I would like to see the vehicle hit 350-400bhp w/o replacing internals.

 

[HermaN]

Replace the whole thing with an Evo 5-8 engine, stronger engines all round, and will easy see you 350 safely, 400 is pushing it, and I would not really go over 380 on stock internals, less so on an Evo 4 engine.

 

[RsvRob]

*edit* I would like to see the vehicle hit 350-400bhp w/o replacing internals.

You will be lucky to see anymore than 350bhp without changing internals on a std 4 and even then the block can suffer from crankwalk :meh:

As herman said just change for a 5-8 engine... even down to cost, just replacing parts on the 4 engine will cost near on the same as a 2nd hand 5-8 engine to see 380bhp ish

 

[B6lee]

as said throw it away and buy an 8MR engine and say hello to a reliable 400bhp car

 

[gooner8]

as your rebuilding it your self at a guess I'd say you haven't got the money for a 8mr engine?? If that is the case? I would change the piston's and cam's for 6 onward's. As its all out, defo the piston's and rod's as there pant's compare to the later one's, big ring land's that like to melt. Lol and check bottom end bearing's every 4k for wear! Or get a later crank build in! It can be done and has over the road! No report's of crank walk yet. Hope this help's

 

[Dom_J]

gooner8 is in the right state of mind...

I didn´t want to replace the engine just yet for a few reasons.

- I don´t know how long I will keep the car or if I can take it back stateside
- When I do throw a new engine in the car it will be built to reach a goal of 600+whp before it is thrown in the car(that´s not financially feasible right now)

So right now I am just going to fix the head, put her back together while just refreshing it so to speak. 350bhp is reasonable for out me out here.

- I also want to learn to tune the 4g63 on this engine so when I do blow it up, I don´t feel so bad.

- I had a budget of a 1000 Euros to get it back on the road. I don´t think I could have got a Evo 8 engine for that much.

Thanks for the input fellas...the engine will definitely get replaced but not just yet, I couldn´t even find a replacement head for under 1800 us dollars. Wow.

 

[gooner8]

as it is you could run 330-350 bhp Ish. with newer piston's and rod's cam's you could run 350- 380 ish with the right mod's (fuel pump, exhaust, map, boost controller.etc) and an evo 5 turbo for the 380ish as i believe a 4 tub will max out at about 360 top's. I think i right in saying your need 8mr cam's or uprated cam's and an 80 series tub to make 400 with the right mod's. Hope this help's.

 

[RsvRob]

as it is you could run 330-350 bhp Ish. with newer piston's and rod's cam's you could run 350- 380 ish with the right mod's (fuel pump, exhaust, map, boost controller.etc) and an evo 5 turbo for the 380ish as i believe a 4 tub will max out at about 360 top's. I think i right in saying your need 8mr cam's or uprated cam's and an 80 series tub to make 400 with the right mod's. Hope this help's.

+1 gooner

however the crankwalk issue is down to the thrust bearing issue and lack of oil I believe

 

[gooner8]

yeah its a bitch! You can make a mod to the trust washer face(to let oil in) witch is ment to help but not sure if it will stop it for good! Best thing to do is just keep an eye on it, when/if there's sign's of wear change the bearing's! Witch is a cheap job as the crank don't have to come out.

 

[micevo]

yea as stated above go with 2nd hand E8 pistons and rods hone the bores yourself MR cams if poss belts i always use gates head gasket MR 5 layer steel one, mitsi bearing prob the best,also to help the life of bearing dont put a heavy clutch in also dont start up with clutch pedle down, always use good oil, thats it really... oh and enjoy,

 

[Dom_J]

as it is you could run 330-350 bhp Ish. with newer piston's and rod's cam's you could run 350- 380 ish with the right mod's (fuel pump, exhaust, map, boost controller.etc) and an evo 5 turbo for the 380ish as i believe a 4 tub will max out at about 360 top's. I think i right in saying your need 8mr cam's or uprated cam's and an 80 series tub to make 400 with the right mod's. Hope this help's.

yea as stated above go with 2nd hand E8 pistons and rods hone the bores yourself MR cams if poss belts i always use gates head gasket MR 5 layer steel one, mitsi bearing prob the best,also to help the life of bearing dont put a heavy clutch in also dont start up with clutch pedle down, always use good oil, thats it really... oh and enjoy,

Thanks for that info fellas, that was really helpful! I just found out earlier, If I want to import the vehicle to the states it has to have the ORIGINAL engine in the car to get through :cry:

So definitely can't swap the engine but w/the info you guys gave I should be able to piece something together temporarily that will keep me happy

Honestly I can be content w/about 300whp to get me by for a little while. 400ish would definitely be nice though

+1 gooner

however the crankwalk issue is down to the thrust bearing issue and lack of oil I believe

yeah its a bitch! You can make a mod to the trust washer face(to let oil in) witch is ment to help but not sure if it will stop it for good! Best thing to do is just keep an eye on it, when/if there's sign's of wear change the bearing's! Witch is a cheap job as the crank don't have to come out.

I definitely have to come up w/a ritual for checking the bearings and making sure she doesn't crank walk on me. How often do you guys recommend oil changes for the car. I'd like to see her last me for a while longer.

I'm worried a little because I did just replace the clutch w/a stock Evo 5 clutch/flywheel not too long ago.

Anyone ever tried one of these girdles:


http://www.kigglyracing.com/parts/Main_Girdle.htm


I hear this will alleviate the crank walk issue w/the 6-Bolts...

 

[ElDopesta]

Hi Dom.

I suggest that you refresh the Bearings and the Thrust Washers at the very least buddy.

Try to replace the Crank/Rods/Pistons/Rings with a nice set of Evo VIII items.

You will need to go for an uprated Head Gasket and the specification will depend on how much had to come off the head so don't decide on which one to go for until then buddy.

Stock Bolts will suffice.

Whilst the engine is out, it makes sense to change the belts too and stock specification items will be just fine.

Try and replace the Oil Pump too with a new one if your budget can stretch that far.

Make sure that you change the Water Pump buddy and go for a RalliArt or Kakimoto thermostat as they trigger at lower temperatures.

Keep us posted buddy!


El

 

[evoaps]

as said throw it away and buy an 8MR engine and say hello to a reliable 400bhp car

+1 if your gonna be spending money on new internals i`d spend a little extra for peace of mind

 

[Dom_J]

Hi Dom.

I suggest that you refresh the Bearings and the Thrust Washers at the very least buddy.

Try to replace the Crank/Rods/Pistons/Rings with a nice set of Evo VIII items.

You will need to go for an uprated Head Gasket and the specification will depend on how much had to come off the head so don't decide on which one to go for until then buddy.

Stock Bolts will suffice.

Whilst the engine is out, it makes sense to change the belts too and stock specification items will be just fine.

Try and replace the Oil Pump too with a new one if your budget can stretch that far.

Make sure that you change the Water Pump buddy and go for a RalliArt or Kakimoto thermostat as they trigger at lower temperatures.

Keep us posted buddy!


El

Thanks on that info!!

Where is the best place to get the RalliArt Waterpump & Kakimoto Thermostat??

+1 if your gonna be spending money on new internals i`d spend a little extra for peace of mind

Can't swap the engine if I want to import it to the states :meh:

When I'm stateside...game on