G
Gilly
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Hi all,
don't know if this is a re-post but I have found this snippet of information on tinterweb, might help someone might not but thought I would share it anyway
Since i am in Germany, and all Evos here have the Full ACD and AYC package, i may give you a few hints.
We have MANY pumps failing, and i am also doing repairs of them.
First , Errors 80,81 and 82 belongs to "pump doesnt built enough Pressure"
There are 3 reasons for that:
1: it takes too long to built the Pressure up
2: Not enough pressure
3: Sensor doesn't show pressure built up ( very uncommon on Pumps Evo 7 to 9 EDM/JDM )
First test the pump in following manner:
Let the car sit over night. Try to make test in an closed, QUIET room or area.
Switch IGN on, DO NOT START, wait 5 seconds, Floor the throttle for 3 seconds.
The pump should start now. You should hear that the sound changes after 4-5 seconds ( pump built up pressure ) and should sound that the pump has to work harder.
after 10-12 seconds it should switch off, and the ACD lights will NOT lit ALL.
If this works like described, the pump is fine for COLD fluid, and pressure is built up.
If its doesn't change the sound, or all 3 Lights go on, or the pump is running 25 seconds before shutting off, there is no pressure built up and the Pump has an mechanical issue an has to be overhauled ( The pump should look White on the main aluminum Block due to Salt / Water corrosion.)
If the sound changes, but still running for 25 seconds and the light go on, its supposed to be the Sensor.
To check that, its the best to have an Mitsubishi MUT III diagnostic. You can read the pressure sensor values with the MUT III when the Pump running, and diagnostic its state.
If the Lights going on only during cornering driving AND after acceleration:
It is supposed the Pump Block corrosion issue as above, but in an earlier stage.
If the fluid heats up, the pressure inside is lost quicker and the pump is running more often, making the fluid even hotter.
This is the first sign of that corrosion fault. Overhaul will be needed.
WHAT IS NEVER AN ISSUE ( no accidents assumed)
Pump Pressure accumulator ( the black Bubble on top )
Pump Motor ( lower side of the pump RED/BLACK or RED/WHITE heavy gauge wires )
Check all Pump electrical connectors is advised on USDM ( unlock and connect back app. 5 times to take care the have contact )
Check Connectors in the drivers footrest area left at bottom of A-pillar( block of 4 or 5 connectors ) that there are no Water , salt or anything like that. UNLOCK them ( Battery disconnected ) and look inside for green layers inside plastics.
This happens when you route something ( Tubes, Hoses, wiring through the Drivers side fender to inside ) and water/salt enter to the inside wiring loom.
by the way, Pump itself is sitting Front Drivers side behind front fascia on USDM cars with ACD only ( Upright accu sump ) and in the rear drivers side below Trunk for ALL EDM,JDM and AUDM Cars with full AYC and ACD.
don't know if this is a re-post but I have found this snippet of information on tinterweb, might help someone might not but thought I would share it anyway
Since i am in Germany, and all Evos here have the Full ACD and AYC package, i may give you a few hints.
We have MANY pumps failing, and i am also doing repairs of them.
First , Errors 80,81 and 82 belongs to "pump doesnt built enough Pressure"
There are 3 reasons for that:
1: it takes too long to built the Pressure up
2: Not enough pressure
3: Sensor doesn't show pressure built up ( very uncommon on Pumps Evo 7 to 9 EDM/JDM )
First test the pump in following manner:
Let the car sit over night. Try to make test in an closed, QUIET room or area.
Switch IGN on, DO NOT START, wait 5 seconds, Floor the throttle for 3 seconds.
The pump should start now. You should hear that the sound changes after 4-5 seconds ( pump built up pressure ) and should sound that the pump has to work harder.
after 10-12 seconds it should switch off, and the ACD lights will NOT lit ALL.
If this works like described, the pump is fine for COLD fluid, and pressure is built up.
If its doesn't change the sound, or all 3 Lights go on, or the pump is running 25 seconds before shutting off, there is no pressure built up and the Pump has an mechanical issue an has to be overhauled ( The pump should look White on the main aluminum Block due to Salt / Water corrosion.)
If the sound changes, but still running for 25 seconds and the light go on, its supposed to be the Sensor.
To check that, its the best to have an Mitsubishi MUT III diagnostic. You can read the pressure sensor values with the MUT III when the Pump running, and diagnostic its state.
If the Lights going on only during cornering driving AND after acceleration:
It is supposed the Pump Block corrosion issue as above, but in an earlier stage.
If the fluid heats up, the pressure inside is lost quicker and the pump is running more often, making the fluid even hotter.
This is the first sign of that corrosion fault. Overhaul will be needed.
WHAT IS NEVER AN ISSUE ( no accidents assumed)
Pump Pressure accumulator ( the black Bubble on top )
Pump Motor ( lower side of the pump RED/BLACK or RED/WHITE heavy gauge wires )
Check all Pump electrical connectors is advised on USDM ( unlock and connect back app. 5 times to take care the have contact )
Check Connectors in the drivers footrest area left at bottom of A-pillar( block of 4 or 5 connectors ) that there are no Water , salt or anything like that. UNLOCK them ( Battery disconnected ) and look inside for green layers inside plastics.
This happens when you route something ( Tubes, Hoses, wiring through the Drivers side fender to inside ) and water/salt enter to the inside wiring loom.
by the way, Pump itself is sitting Front Drivers side behind front fascia on USDM cars with ACD only ( Upright accu sump ) and in the rear drivers side below Trunk for ALL EDM,JDM and AUDM Cars with full AYC and ACD.
