Is this the problem to all of my issues?

[Reece.]

I have a evo 6 and had an annoying rattle, after a bit of research found it to be the actuator or wastegate flap, I've heard adjusting it half a turn can take up the slack and stop the ratteling?

1. But on inspection once it was off, some bumpy has drilled another hole in the bracket!

2. Now why would this need to be done wen the original hole is fine and both bolts are fine aswell as all the threads?

3. Also the bracket with the now 3 holes in is loose itself and could well cause a rattle!

4. My Gizzmo IBC is set up to 1.7 bar at the highest, since owning the car it's only ever reached a maximum of 1.34 and sometimes in 1st gear it will loose power for a split second like fuel cut and then maximum power again?

Are all these going to be caused by the actuator and the fact it's been mounted at a different angle due to the hole being drilled?

Thanks, Reece.

 

[fq-craigus]

Some bright spark could have drilled another hole to adjust the actuator pressure by adjusting the flap. Looks like you might benefit from a new one, not seen it before but could have been a quick fix for a nakard actuator

 

[RsvRob]

If I'm not mistaken. When you setup the gizmo. You set gain and duty to reach desired boost. So if it's set to 1.7 then you must have seen it hit that once??

Fitting a new actuator wouldn't do any harm tho. I have a new one if you want to pm me to discuss

 

[Reece.]

Some bright spark could have drilled another hole to adjust the actuator pressure by adjusting the flap. Looks like you might benefit from a new one, not seen it before but could have been a quick fix for a nakard actuator

It's a possibility, just seems a bit much for a bit of extra boost when it's got Gizzmo and things like Apexi FC?! Couldn't the arm on the end been adjusted anyway as it's threaded?!

If I'm not mistaken. When you setup the gizmo. You set gain and duty to reach desired boost. So if it's set to 1.7 then you must have seen it hit that once??

Fitting a new actuator wouldn't do any harm tho. I have a new one if you want to pm me to discuss

I've set it up on 1 setting and it reads 1.57 but it will only go up to about 1.4 bar and really hesitates as if it's hitting fuel cut even though it has walbro. Gain is only on 6 and surely if set up correct it should be hitting near that everytime?

What actuator is it mate? I've heard the evo 8 one is a good upgrade? What about a forge item with harder spring?

 

[RsvRob]

Std brand new evo 8 actuator.

Don't meen to sound off. But how do you know it's set to 1.54! When you say it only hits 1.4! Are you copying someone else's settings?
If it's reading 1.54 then it's hitting 1.54 surely :what:

 

[Reece.]

Std brand new evo 8 actuator.

Don't meen to sound off. But how do you know it's set to 1.54! When you say it only hits 1.4! Are you copying someone else's settings?
If it's reading 1.54 then it's hitting 1.54 surely :what:

When scrolling through settings 1-4 on setting 2 it flashes 1.54 then goes to real time 0.00, I'm just going by that but it never ever hits that not does it on any of the other settings!

How much are you after posted for the actuator mate?

 

[fq-craigus]

It's a possibility, just seems a bit much for a bit of extra boost when it's got Gizzmo and things like Apexi FC?! Couldn't the arm on the end been adjusted anyway as it's threaded?!

Is the threading on the end free and not seized? Your guess would be better than mine as you have it but people try all sorts of daft shizzle when things are nakard. Doubt it would have been done for more boost even a noob would just adjust their boost controller

 

[Reece.]

Is the threading on the end free and not seized? Your guess would be better than mine as you have it but people try all sorts of daft shizzle when things are nakard. Doubt it would have been done for more boost even a noob would just adjust their boost controller

I've free'd off the adjustable end tonight as it was rusty as anything but only have it half a turn to try and take up any slack in the wastegate flap. I need to change it because of the extra hole that's drilled and the fact it rattles and is rusty.

But my point exactly why wouldn't they use the Gizzmo to adjust it?

 

[RsvRob]

Ok so your guessing that the settings from the previous user are going to work the same and give you the same boost.
Did the controller come with the car?
You say it is set for 1.7 in your 1st post but then say the peak showing is 1.54?!
There is to many variables in all this. I would start over again and get it set to 1.5

 

[Reece.]

Ok so your guessing that the settings from the previous user are going to work the same and give you the same boost.
Did the controller come with the car?
You say it is set for 1.7 in your 1st post but then say the peak showing is 1.54?!
There is to many variables in all this. I would start over again and get it set to 1.5

Yeah controller came with the car and I've only changed setting 2.

Setting 1,3 & 4 are from the previous owner and hasn't been touched and still any of those settings from before it still never reaches its target level?

Yeah it's target boost on setting 4 is 1.75 bar and on the real time whilst driving under the 1.75 setting it will only ever reach 1.34 bar. Unless I've got it wrong? But I thought 1.75 would be the boost it's trying to hit everytime?

If that makes sense to you at all? Or have/am I missing something?

 

[RsvRob]

It's not as straight forward as that despite it being simple to setup...

Try this (step 3 onwards)

Setting a Gizzmo IBC - The (VERY) Simple Guide

1) Fit Unit as per instructions
2) Start car and allow engine to warm up thoroughly whilst doing the next few steps
3) Press the top button on the IBC until the no. "1" is shown on the display. It will flash 3 things: "1(The boost level)", "Target Boost(whatever that is)", "0.00(Real time boost level)".
4) Press and hold the top button until a number (The "duty cycle") comes up on the screen. Set this to 10 (the minimum).
5) Leave the controller for 4-5 seconds and it will return to the "real time" boost level
6) Press and hold the bottom button until a number (The "gain") comes up on the screen. Set this to "0" for the moment. Leave for 4-5 seconds until it returns to the "real time" boost level
7) Drive the car on full throttle in 3rd or 4th gear
8) Pull over to the side of the road in a safe place, then either turn off the ignition then turn it back on again, OR, Press the top button once, then the bottom button once (this will put the controller into boost level 2, then back to 1 again). Either way you do this you will be informed what the highest stable boost pressure achieved was by way of the pressure flashing at you on the screen. This is the new "Target" boost. Let us say that this was 12.5psi and you would like to achieve 16psi.
9) Press and hold the top button again until the "Duty" comes up again. Increase this by 10. Then leave the controller for 4-5 seconds until it returns to the real time boost screen.
10) Repeat steps 7/8/9 until the boost level you require is achieved. If you get duty cycle over 50 and the boost level is not increasing, then you have either not plugged in the solenoid or you have not plumbed it in correctly! As it gets closer to the level you would like, only increase by small steps of, say, 5 at a time.
11) When you are happy with the pressure, press and hold the bottom button and enter the "Gain" setting menu. Gain is How hard/fast the boost is brought in. It should NEVER be higher than duty cycle. In fact we have found the best setting is below 10. If gain is too high the boost will either overshoot, or the maximum stable (Target) boost will increase every time you drive it!
12) Repeat steps 3-11 on boost levels 2, 3 and 4 to achieve the boost levels you require.

It's extremely simple to do and the controller gives consistent, steady results if this is followed.