clutch out

[leo]

hi teckys:razz: you not got rid of me yet lol:wub: not got to do it yet but if mods come on as fast as i think itle be very soon i have done meany clutchies on my ramps but never on evo 4 is there any un welcome surprises in as i have become awere that you have to unclip something inside bell housing is this true and do you need any thing speacial as in tools and how long should it take:whistling::arms: thanks

 

[B6lee]

heres one for you, this needs to be done before you remove all the bell housing bolts. you will find 2 gromets to gain acesss to the bearing. 1 top 1 bottom and youll need a large flat blade screwdrive or 2 to do it

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vqicDPXugg]YouTube - How to remove push style throw out bearing from Evo[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsIOWe3LyIQ"]YouTube - Eclipse Throwout bearing PS24[/ame]

 

[B6lee]

Remove both drive shafts on either side T/case and gearbox. remove them int the normal way by undoing the center nut, the temove the lower pinch bolt and pull the bottom ball joint out but dont pull the shafts from the box, use a hammer and block or pry bar to just gently tap the joint away from its circlip. Once these are removed you can see that on the drivers side the shaft inside the gearbox has a hole with an 8mm thread. This is where you put your sliding hammer and pull it out. It comes out towards the driver side. Do not tap on the other end. This shaft is about 1ft long. Once this done remove the T/case by removing the 5 short bolts and 1 long one. Lever slightly the T/case and you'll be able to take it out. carefull, its heavier than it looks

Release bearing:Remove the slave cylinder, then remove the gromet from the underneath of the Gearbox. then push clutch fork to depress the bearing clips. You could locate 2 long flat screwdrivers between the fork and the P/plate washer so that you keep the locking circlip depressed and pull the fork towards the passenger side.

once transfer removed drain the radiator and remove it if you need to but what you want to do is support the engine and box, remove the gearbox mount completly from the gearbox casing. then put a sissor jack between th eengine and steering rack, this will swing the gearbox round to the front so it clears the sub frame/ chassis leg

 

[leo]

got it it is almost the same as any other gear box removel exept a few bits like them you just told me thanks for that it sounds quite simple now i know wot to exspect lee you are a :awesome:

 

[B6lee]

added another trick with a jack

 

[leo]

wots that lee:razz:

 

[B6lee]

above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[leo]

yep i do have a strong arm that will hold the engine from the top and you can be under the car with engine suported from above wen in place you dont need sissor jack you can swing whole thing on your own but alot better with too of you on it i do gear box work all the time but never on evos you can get in a lot of trouble if you do not reserch before trying almost every car has somthing different were you mite need tool for that job only thanks for that you have been a good help on the heads up!!!!!!

 

[B6lee]

yea thats all good and i know what your saying cos i been there a few times on my back with a gearbox on my chest but these buggers are a 2 man lift for sure and the sisor jack does help keep the box forward in the area away from chassis leg so you can pull it straight back away from engine and just bush the the box straight back on cos its tricky to get the shaft through the preshure plate and into the flywheel without hitting the throw out bearing cage.

oh yea, there is a 10mm bolt that holds the pin in that goes throught the clutch fork. remove bolt and wiggle pin out thhrough the cap in the top of the casing in order to change the bearing.

 

[leo]

yes it does sound tricky is it two man lift without tran box on sounds like a mere if not done right but i have some bad ones before is the uprated clutch hard to press in during gear change or do you not feel any diferent.

 

[B6lee]

depends what you fit. what power you gonna be running, i ran 460 bhp through a helix organic, not cheap but it feels no different to a standard clutch to use and coped with a few launches

above that you want a exedy twin plate, can handle lots of power and torque and lots of launches but even more money they rattle a little and judder a bit and mine being the heavy duty is like trying to push a wall over after a while but youll get used to it

 

[leo]

hi i think my evo will be around 340/360 bhp with the mods i am putting on it "255 fuel pump" full 3" mongoose exhoust" decat pipe" "e6 ecu" "560 injecters" inducktion kit" remap" is there any thing else wot i can im proove on or is that the best i can have as it is only evo 4 engine

 

[B6lee]

As it the standard engine mate they reckon no more than 1:20 bar boost which will get you around 330 bhp. I wouldn't want anyone to run a 4 engine at 360 bhp unless they were going to throw it away shortly. Keep it down mate, keep it safe

 

[leo]

ok so i can keep the mod like i have explaind but do not have turbo more than 1,2 boost then it should be safe is that right

 

[B6lee]

ok so i can keep the mod like i have explaind but do not have turbo more than 1,2 boost then it should be safe is that right

Yea you got it

 

[B6lee]

nick can this thread be made into a sticky ???

obviously the stuff apart from the info about doing the clutch can be removed

 

[EVOIV MJC]

My e4 is more than 1.2 and has been for over 2 and half years i have had it,,

Seen the gizzmo peak at 1.6 and over at times,,,

Been pulling fine and strong in every gear,, :razz::razz:

 

[jay2k6]

Sorry to jump in but My Iv is running the same at 1.6 sometimes higher, thought that was the norm cause me mate's does 1.4 but hes only got a decat and thast it