- Wexford Ireland
i want to change the ayc fluid on my evo 5 is it hard to do?
and what type of fluid do i need
and what type of fluid do i need
Good idea it would be helpful for everyoneWell either way that's how to change both parts of the Ayc system now so perhaps this could be moved to the how to section ?!
that picture is dead handy because when i done mine it was described over the phone and ended up opening the wrong bolt!! :blush: :cry:^^^^^
That is only needed if you are bleeding the hydraulic side of the system and you don't have and MUT-II or EvoScan. However I think the OP just wants to change the fluid in the clutch bath in the rear diff.
It's easy to do, and tools needed are...
- axle stands
- 24mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner, or preferably a 17mm 6-point socket on a flexi-head bar
- new fluid (I use Amsoil stuff from Opie Oils)
- oil syringe
- nimble fingers (this is important)
Basically get the rear off the ground and supported on axle stands, then use the 17mm ring spanner or flexi-head bar with socket to undo the fill bolt. It is a tight squeeze, and if you round off the bolt it means the diff needs to come off to get it out, hence the flexi-head bar with 6-point socket is best here.
Once fill bolt is off use the 24mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out. Re-fit drain plug, then use the oil syringe and some flexible plastic tubing to re-fill the diff with oil until it starts pouring back out the fill bolt.
Re-fit the fill bolt, and lower the car, job done! If you are getting "donkey noises" then 2 or 3 flushes over the period of a week or so may be needed to help flush out any crap. Mitsu say the hyraulic part of the system should also be changed at the same time as the clutch bath, but realistically, unless the oil in there has thinned out or you suspect air my have entered the system, it's not really needed.
Remember to remove the fill bolt FIRST. Last thing you want is to drain the fluid, only to find you can't get the fill bolt off.
Oh, and pic to show where the drain & fill bolts are....
For the hydraulic system you have 2 bleed nipples that need opened, and the system has to be pressurised to do that, hence you need all 4 wheels off the ground with the wheels going at 20 MPH+, then when you turn the wheel full lock left you open the right bleed nipple until fresh fluid comes, out, then do the same with full lock right and the left bleed nipple.
Or you can get EvoScan and a Limitless 1.3u cable and bleed the system like Mitsu do, without having the wheels turning while you are under the car, and also means you don't need all 4 wheels in the air.
They are 2 seperate parts of the AYC system. The one I told you about is just a bath of fluid that clutch packs sit in, the hydraulic side is the fluid the pump uses. Donkey noises are usually caused by dirty fluid in the clutch bath and sometimes by air in the hyraulic system. I would try changing the clutch bath fluid first if you do not suspect air has entered the system.
i guess so, i do the engine oil myself was just not to sure about the ayc.but sound's easy now i no .thanks. But i get the ayc done every 4.5 on the service. I thought he done the whole system but maybe just the clutch bath? I'll have to ask.?Changing the fluid in the clutch bath is no more difficult than an oil change. A trained monkey (like the ones you get in some garages ) could do it.