changing ayc fluid

evoaps

evoaps

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i want to change the ayc fluid on my evo 5 is it hard to do?

and what type of fluid do i need

thanks :)
 
EVOIV MJC

EVOIV MJC

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dont think u can just take out and replace u need USE MUT II,
 
jay2k6

jay2k6

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Just read this, cause i'm looking at changing all me oils on me evo 4, ayc, rear diff, transfer box, and gearbox, so it should be the same on the 5, (Drain your ayc fluid from the rear diff, replace directly into the filler part in the diff, no computers needed etc, the only time you need mut II is when you have had the pressure side of the system apart such as having pump off) I hope this helps and is correct for the 5, if im wrong someone will shout at me lol
 
B6lee

B6lee

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It can be done and it's quite simple to do Even easier if you have a helper

You'll need some ATF (dextron111) available from all good motor factors maybe even halfords

I use this but you'll only use just under a litre Halfords | Comma Automatic Transmission Fluid AQ3 5L

You'll need a 2 poster ramp or 4 really good axle stands to get the car in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground

Then under the car on the rear of the diff you'll see 2 bleed nipples
Attach a piece of pipe to 1 of them with the other end of the pipe in a empty 1 litre bottle or jar etc Then open the bleed nipple. 1 turn is usually enough

Then with the engine running select 3rd gear sand slowly let the clutch out then increase the revs to about 2,000rpm and hold it there. Now you will need to rotate the steering from lock to lock repeatedly until you have about half a litre of fluid out then close the nipple and repeat the same on the other nipple

Job done give yourself a pat on the back for saving yourself a fortune :)

Please note I do not take responsibility for any damage caused buy you not supporting the car properly :)
Best to be done on a ramp by a mechanic :)
 
HermaN

HermaN

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^^^^^

That is only needed if you are bleeding the hydraulic side of the system and you don't have and MUT-II or EvoScan. However I think the OP just wants to change the fluid in the clutch bath in the rear diff.

It's easy to do, and tools needed are...

- jack
- axle stands
- 24mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner, or preferably a 17mm 6-point socket on a flexi-head bar
- new fluid (I use Amsoil stuff from Opie Oils)
- oil syringe
- nimble fingers (this is important)

Basically get the rear off the ground and supported on axle stands, then use the 17mm ring spanner or flexi-head bar with socket to undo the fill bolt. It is a tight squeeze, and if you round off the bolt it means the diff needs to come off to get it out, hence the flexi-head bar with 6-point socket is best here.

Once fill bolt is off use the 24mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out. Re-fit drain plug, then use the oil syringe and some flexible plastic tubing to re-fill the diff with oil until it starts pouring back out the fill bolt.

Re-fit the fill bolt, and lower the car, job done! If you are getting "donkey noises" then 2 or 3 flushes over the period of a week or so may be needed to help flush out any crap. Mitsu say the hyraulic part of the system should also be changed at the same time as the clutch bath, but realistically, unless the oil in there has thinned out or you suspect air my have entered the system, it's not really needed.

Remember to remove the fill bolt FIRST. Last thing you want is to drain the fluid, only to find you can't get the fill bolt off.

Oh, and pic to show where the drain & fill bolts are....

 
B6lee

B6lee

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Well either way that's how to change both parts of the Ayc system now so perhaps this could be moved to the how to section ?! :)
 
evoaps

evoaps

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Well either way that's how to change both parts of the Ayc system now so perhaps this could be moved to the how to section ?! :)
Good idea it would be helpful for everyone

But whats the difference in what you told me and herman?do I have to open another drain plug for the hydraulic system?
 
HermaN

HermaN

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For the hydraulic system you have 2 bleed nipples that need opened, and the system has to be pressurised to do that, hence you need all 4 wheels off the ground with the wheels going at 20 MPH+, then when you turn the wheel full lock left you open the right bleed nipple until fresh fluid comes, out, then do the same with full lock right and the left bleed nipple.

Or you can get EvoScan and a Limitless 1.3u cable and bleed the system like Mitsu do, without having the wheels turning while you are under the car, and also means you don't need all 4 wheels in the air.

They are 2 seperate parts of the AYC system. The one I told you about is just a bath of fluid that clutch packs sit in, the hydraulic side is the fluid the pump uses. Donkey noises are usually caused by dirty fluid in the clutch bath and sometimes by air in the hyraulic system. I would try changing the clutch bath fluid first if you do not suspect air has entered the system.
 
youngy_315

youngy_315

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kings lynn
^^^^^

That is only needed if you are bleeding the hydraulic side of the system and you don't have and MUT-II or EvoScan. However I think the OP just wants to change the fluid in the clutch bath in the rear diff.

It's easy to do, and tools needed are...

- jack
- axle stands
- 24mm socket
- 17mm ring spanner, or preferably a 17mm 6-point socket on a flexi-head bar
- new fluid (I use Amsoil stuff from Opie Oils)
- oil syringe
- nimble fingers (this is important)

Basically get the rear off the ground and supported on axle stands, then use the 17mm ring spanner or flexi-head bar with socket to undo the fill bolt. It is a tight squeeze, and if you round off the bolt it means the diff needs to come off to get it out, hence the flexi-head bar with 6-point socket is best here.

Once fill bolt is off use the 24mm socket to remove the drain plug and let the oil drain out. Re-fit drain plug, then use the oil syringe and some flexible plastic tubing to re-fill the diff with oil until it starts pouring back out the fill bolt.

Re-fit the fill bolt, and lower the car, job done! If you are getting "donkey noises" then 2 or 3 flushes over the period of a week or so may be needed to help flush out any crap. Mitsu say the hyraulic part of the system should also be changed at the same time as the clutch bath, but realistically, unless the oil in there has thinned out or you suspect air my have entered the system, it's not really needed.

Remember to remove the fill bolt FIRST. Last thing you want is to drain the fluid, only to find you can't get the fill bolt off.

Oh, and pic to show where the drain & fill bolts are....

that picture is dead handy because when i done mine it was described over the phone and ended up opening the wrong bolt!! :blush: :cry:
 
evoaps

evoaps

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5,133
Location
Wexford Ireland
For the hydraulic system you have 2 bleed nipples that need opened, and the system has to be pressurised to do that, hence you need all 4 wheels off the ground with the wheels going at 20 MPH+, then when you turn the wheel full lock left you open the right bleed nipple until fresh fluid comes, out, then do the same with full lock right and the left bleed nipple.

Or you can get EvoScan and a Limitless 1.3u cable and bleed the system like Mitsu do, without having the wheels turning while you are under the car, and also means you don't need all 4 wheels in the air.

They are 2 seperate parts of the AYC system. The one I told you about is just a bath of fluid that clutch packs sit in, the hydraulic side is the fluid the pump uses. Donkey noises are usually caused by dirty fluid in the clutch bath and sometimes by air in the hyraulic system. I would try changing the clutch bath fluid first if you do not suspect air has entered the system.

Cheers mate just one last question where are the 2 bleed nipples located for the hydraulic system?
 
B6lee

B6lee

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Cheers mate just one last question where are the 2 bleed nipples located for the hydraulic system?
As I said they are on the rear of the diff and you can see them in the picture :)
 
B6lee

B6lee

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Well you can almost see them. You see the 2 metal pipes in the pic well the 2 bleed nipples are just above them :)
 
gooner8

gooner8

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very helpful thread this. Still don't no if i'll have the ball's to do it myself tho? :)
 
HermaN

HermaN

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very helpful thread this. Still don't no if i'll have the ball's to do it myself tho? :)
Changing the fluid in the clutch bath is no more difficult than an oil change. A trained monkey (like the ones you get in some garages :p) could do it. ;)
 
gooner8

gooner8

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Changing the fluid in the clutch bath is no more difficult than an oil change. A trained monkey (like the ones you get in some garages :p) could do it. ;)
i guess so, i do the engine oil myself was just not to sure about the ayc.but sound's easy now i no .thanks. But i get the ayc done every 4.5 on the service. I thought he done the whole system but maybe just the clutch bath? I'll have to ask.?
 
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