How to read and clear the fault codes on your Mitsubishi

Considering how complex some of their cars are, reading the fault codes on their cars is pretty easy!

This method will work on all UK cars made before 1999. That includes Lancer Evolutions, Petrol Shoguns and L200s, Colts and Galants. It will probably work on imports too but I can't remember trying it! After 1999 Mitsubishi had to switch to the EOBD system to conform to European emmissions rules that have still not been put in place.


Anyway, to the garage!

Turn the ignition off.
Earth out terminal 1 on the Data link connector. On Galants, Evos and stuff it is under the dash on the drivers side. A simple wire with a crocodile clip will do.

Turn the ignition on. You don't need to start it up. Just until the lights come on.
The Management light will start to flash. If there are no codes stored it will flash constantly.
If there is a code stored, the light will flash irregularly, fast and slow.

A long flash indicates 10 and a quick flash indicates one. So for example if the fault code 36 was stored the light would flash 3 long flashes then flash quickly 6 times. See, easy isn't it? If you do make an ars..make a mistake turn the ignition off. Disconnect the wire. Reconnect the wire and turn the ignition on again.

Compare the fault code with the table below then fix as necessary. Remember, just because the code tells you the faulty component it doesn't mean the component is faulty. Check the connections at the component, check the wiring leading to it, battery terminals etc.



Fault codes...

1 Engine control module malfunction
11 O2 sensor malfunction (Car usually runs weak when this code appears) (If a V6 this relates to the O2 sensor on the drivers side In a 4x4 Or the one at the back of the engine on a Galant)
12 Mass air flow sensor circuit malfinction
13 Intake air temperature sensor (Comes on if you have chucked the sensor away to fit some big fancy K&N induction kit!)
14 Throttle position sensor fault
21 Engine temp sensor malfunction (Check the spark plugs too because they carbon up if this sensor is causing the car to run rich)
22 Crankshaft position sensor (Try cleaning the dirt off the end before replacing)
23 Camshaft position/distributor hall sensor (Common on Galant 1800)
24 Vehicle speed sensor
25 Barometric pressure sensor (Another name for the MAP sensor)
31 Knock sensor circuit
36 Ignition timing adjustment connector fault
41 Injectors circuit malfunction
44 Ignition coil/ignition amplifier cylinders 1 and 4
52 As above for 2 and 5 (on a V6)
53 As above for 3 and 6 (On a V6 too)
54 Immobiliser control module to engine control module malfunction (comes on if you have changed one or the other and not had them programmed in by Mitsi)
55 Idle speed control actuator malfunction (A good injector cleaner and a thrash up the motorway usually fixes this!)
59 O2 sensor (if you have a V6 this is the sensor on the passenger side ona 4x4 and the one at the front on a Galant etc.)
61 Transmission control module/engine control malfunction
62 Intake manifold air control actuator/position sensor malfunction
64 Alternator malfunction (remember to check under load and when revved up)
71 Traction control vacuum solenoid malfunction (check the pipes for leaks)
72 Traction control vent solenoid malfunction (usually blocked with dirt)


Assuming you have fixed the problem you now have to clear the codes so the light goes out and so you don't misdiagnose any future faults. And heres how...


Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the battery earth. Make sure you have the radio code! (And if it isn't your car, reset the clock when you are done, customers love that sort of stuff!)

Count slowly to 15
Reconnect the battery.
Check for fault codes again. If there are none, congratulations! If there are, get the kettle on and try again!
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